Difference between a board and lighting bread board?
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Difference between a board and lighting bread board?
You can throw this in the silly question pile, but is there a difference? If you want to do straight lighting with nothing fancy; could you just attach the LED's to a bread board and connect to battery pack? Or is it necessary to use a circuit board?
Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5 Hellcat
Completed: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16CM<,1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato
Completed: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16CM<,1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato
Generally a breadboard is modular, meaning you can use it for whatever you want and in any configuration. It's a "blank", if you will. A circuit board usually means a board that's already been printed with circuits to fit a specific wiring design, although to be more confusing, a breadboard is a circuit board... 
They both do the same thing, so functionally it doesn't matter which you use. It's just a way to connect components together without having to use individual wires.
-Rog
They both do the same thing, so functionally it doesn't matter which you use. It's just a way to connect components together without having to use individual wires.
-Rog
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Mr. Engineer
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Personally, for me, there are a few types:
1. Prototype boards
This is the starting board for me. Any circuits designed on paper, gets tested on this board. Its great for that on-the-fly and last minute changes but you ave to be very careful about shorting and dropping them.
2. Breadboard.
There are two versions. One has long strips (hence the name, stripboard and you need a drill bit to break the tracks) and the other, are just round solder pads with holes. At this stage, where my circuit is more or less confirmed, I have to make the decision:
I will use a stripboard for a fast one-off design for friends and so on. The other breadboard is for when space is a premium. Both are great and because they're SRBP, its easy to shape them and they cost very little.
3. Printed Circuit board
Again, there are two options open for me. The first is the cheaper FR2 where both breadboards cannot solve my problems, especially where SMD components are concerned. Costs more but that is the price to pay. Unfortunately, the quality is only slightly better than the breadboards. Both are brittle and if you're taking too long to solder, track delamination can occur. However, if you pay more, you get the fibreglass version too but then, you would need to upgrade your drill bits and drill to high-speed versions. A normal drill bit will get you three holes on average before going blunt.
The other is the more expensive fibreglass FR4 which is means for production and is industrial quality. And this costs a lot from where I am because there is a minimum quantity.
1. Prototype boards
This is the starting board for me. Any circuits designed on paper, gets tested on this board. Its great for that on-the-fly and last minute changes but you ave to be very careful about shorting and dropping them.
2. Breadboard.
There are two versions. One has long strips (hence the name, stripboard and you need a drill bit to break the tracks) and the other, are just round solder pads with holes. At this stage, where my circuit is more or less confirmed, I have to make the decision:
I will use a stripboard for a fast one-off design for friends and so on. The other breadboard is for when space is a premium. Both are great and because they're SRBP, its easy to shape them and they cost very little.
3. Printed Circuit board
Again, there are two options open for me. The first is the cheaper FR2 where both breadboards cannot solve my problems, especially where SMD components are concerned. Costs more but that is the price to pay. Unfortunately, the quality is only slightly better than the breadboards. Both are brittle and if you're taking too long to solder, track delamination can occur. However, if you pay more, you get the fibreglass version too but then, you would need to upgrade your drill bits and drill to high-speed versions. A normal drill bit will get you three holes on average before going blunt.
The other is the more expensive fibreglass FR4 which is means for production and is industrial quality. And this costs a lot from where I am because there is a minimum quantity.