Working with old second hand kits

[Zubie]

I mentioned in one of the more ephemeral threads that lately old kits, and some really really old kits, have become more available as people start to reduce their stashes or just simply are left as estate sale items. Some of these end up on E-Bay, others at LHS often as special sale items. Sometimes the kit is untouched, sometimes they may be missing instructions and or decals. Sometimes, some work was started on the kit, but is largely unfinished.

As a result, I think this might be a worthy thread for the Construction topic since I suspect more than a few of us have this kind of kit either purchased second hand, or maybe even in some cases just plain sitting in the stash for a long, long, time...like since 1981 or so

Special case that comes to mind immediately are things like old decals. As these things age they do become more yellow. I've seen people suggest exposing a decal sheet to sunlight will whiten it back up. Decals also get more fragile with age, but I've seen some people say that you can overspray these with clear to strengthen them. Is this true, in which case clear what?

There's also issues such as partial assemblies. To some extent this thread might help: Deconstruction. I do understand that the plastic itself on some older kits might not be in as good a shape. Any worries there.

Probably the most problematic physical part issue might be canopies and clear parts in that clear is brittle to start with, and bouncing around in a box for 30 years might just put more than a few scratches on these. Any advice there?

I realize this posting is fairly general, but I figure it might be helpful as I said for aging kits and old stash kits that remain unbuilt - regardless of the unbuilt collector status for these things. Personally I'm more of the mindset I'd like to see the thing built.

My own immediate questions is indeed the decals issue. I know that I can buy stuff to make my own if I got a color printer handy but even there white is a problem (short of working ALPS). Are old decals really just scan-worthy or can they be re-used. Sometimes its just an issue of old decal left-overs from other kits that might make good detailing on other kits.

[Andrew Gorman]

I use ancient decals all the time. The window trick works 9 times out of 10. I spray a light coat of clear lacquer over them if a test decal breaks up or just to be cautious. Then trim them closely if they are still yellowed. I have not had a problem with clear parts, but worse case scenario, glue the broken bits together and vacuform a replacement. For common subjects there are aftermarket vacuform canopies, etc. available. Build those oldies!

[southwestforests]

I've seen people suggest exposing a decal sheet to sunlight will whiten it back up.

And now you'll see someone outright declaring they have done that with success.
Spring and summer where condensation on window is less of a factor are a great time to do so.
If available an upper floor window which gets lots of sun in morning or afternoon works grandly.
Will take a few days.

Don't have time lapse video available but I've had success with both Microscale railroad decals and Academy 1/144 airliner decals.

Decals also get more fragile with age, but I've seen some people say that you can overspray these with clear to strengthen them. Is this true, in which case clear what?

Be aware that clear overspray such as Testors dullcote or glosscote lacquer can/will itself yellow in about 8 to 14 years.
Acrylics are a better bet.
And though not intended to spray, Microscale markets a brush-on flexible decal film material.

[starseeker]

I use Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic for ovecroating old or fragile or home printed decals. Whatever you use for overcoating, make sure you test it on a scrap piece of your decal as some decal coating products may react badly to some decal chemistries. Also, given the crudity of many old (and even new) decals, it's often better to re-draft your own and print them yourself.

[naoto]

I'm apt to scan the decal sheet before doing anything -- that way if disaster strikes, I've at least got something to work with (as a starting point) when trying to re-create the decals.

[Bellerophon]

I'm apt to scan the decal sheet before doing anything -- that way if disaster strikes, I've at least got something to work with (as a starting point) when trying to re-create the decals.

Doing that has saved me a bit of trouble quite a few times. You can also draw nice sharp decal art with a vector drawing program. I use Autocad for this because it's what I know, but there's plenty others.

If only I followed my own advice, I would always scan them, always cut an extra decal from the sheet as a test to see if it falls apart in water (rarely do you need every decal on the sheet), and if it falls apart, always use an extra decal (hopefully there's another extra one) to test a clear coat.

[dizzyfugu]

And though not intended to spray, Microscale markets a brush-on flexible decal film material.

Highly recommended stuff - and you do NOT have to apply it with an airbrush. It's not like a varnish that might leave a recognizable film on top of the decal, it seems to seep into the film and vanishes completely from the decal surface. The stabilizing effect is amazing, though; I have used it on dire cases like (relatively new) aftermarket sheets that disintegrate upon any contact with water into zillions of bits. The treated decals might have to handled with care, but I found the Microscale stuff to be much better than a sprayed thin coat of acrylic varnish. Worth a try.