What type of primer do you use before you paint your resin kits?
I have Tamiya primer and Mr. Surfacer. I know that many use Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with something... but I'm afraid to use it as I think it could really damage my airbrush. I have heard some use automotive primers. You have any favorites?
What do you use to prime your resin kits?
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- Less Than Super Ostrich
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What do you use to prime your resin kits?
On the sixth day, God created man... primarily out of Aves Apoxie Sculpt and other greeblies found around his hobby room.
Re: What do you use to prime your resin kits?
http://www.autobarn.net/dupfpseries.htmlLess Than Super Ostrich wrote:What type of primer do you use before you paint your resin kits?
I have Tamiya primer and Mr. Surfacer. I know that many use Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with something... but I'm afraid to use it as I think it could really damage my airbrush. I have heard some use automotive primers. You have any favorites?
I buy mine at Wal-mart.
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How could this damage your airbrush? I use mr. s in my vls all the time thinned with lacquer thinner and I clean it out with lacquer thinner. I have also cleaned up mistakes with brushed on mr. s using rubbing alcohol so you could try that as a thinning agent. The rubbing alcohol would be less harsh than the lacquer thinner. I guess the biggest issue is to get the mr. s completely out of the airbrush before it dries. I have hit or miss success with the aerosol can primers and so I ditch those efforts for the mr. s. The very best stuff that I have ever used was figure primer put out by floquil but it is really pricey and difficult to find. Good luck.
- Less Than Super Ostrich
- Posts: 2014
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2003 2:18 pm
- Location: Chicago, IL
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- Posts: 399
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 2:27 pm
- Location: charlotte, nc
- Contact:
Well it does not seem to bother anything that I am aware of. The needle seal is the only not metalic part that the lacquer can come into contact with on the VLS and it is nylon. Lacquer has no ill effects on nylon but it the seal does tend to wear after extended use so I replace mine every 3-4 years. I have seen more trouble with gunk collecting inside the airbrush and that causing problems. Letting those parts soak in a little lacquer thinner breaks up the gunk so that you don't damage those parts digging around in the airbrush trying to clean it out. They make reamers and tiny brushes for cleaning out the gunk but you are more likely to do damage that way.Less Than Super Ostrich wrote:I heard that lacquer thinner can damage seals/gaskets over time. There are rubber seals in airbrushes.
I do have a seperate air brush for acrylics and inks, an aztec. While I have never shot lacquer through it, I have a friend how has done so without any problems. Once again I think that the aztec is nylon and not plastic so lacquer thinner does not seem to bother it at all. I would think that acetone would be the most harsh on gaskets and such.
Anyway, good luck on your endevor. You may have to just purchase an assortment of primers and give it a shot on some scrap materials. Like I said, the floquil stuff is the best I have ever found and next to that are the Tamiya primers. Both lay down really smooth and leave a great painting surface but you have to pay for that quality. I can usually prime two 1/6 scale kits with a $6-$10 can of primer. There was another primer that I used for a while that came in a larger 12 oz can but I cannot remember the name. I got it at a Games Workshop store, you know the table top wargame played with the minature figures. The can was silver and I seem to remember that it came in white, grey and black. SIDE NOTE: if you have a Games Workshop nearby or a store that carries their products, definately check out the paints. They have an awesome line of acrylics that have some of the best pigments. These paints cover quickly with fewer coats and the color really pops. You have to thin the heck out of them to shoot them through an airbrush but water with a touch of rubbing alcohol works great.
Good luck and Happy Modeling.