GSI(Gunze Sangyo) acrylics for "Wash"

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:34 am

Does anyone use this technique? Gunze acrylics wash technique?for my model i have an acrylic basecoat,future for gloss finish.. will the gunze wash(diluted with distilled water and a few drops of liquid soap) be effective?

on another note.. i bought some Winsor & Newton artist acrylics to do a wash technique when i noticed that when it was dried, it showed "grains" of black paint .. sort of like super fine sand. but when i tried diluting the gunze to same consistency it did not have this effect.. does anyone know why it ( W&N acrylics) have that effect?

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:59 am

I use Tamiya acrylics, but i don't see that there should be any problem.
Do the usual and test it out on a piece of scrap styrene(Or an old AOL cd...).
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:16 am

I use Tamiya acrylics, but i don't see that there should be any problem.

tamiya acrylics..hmm i never used this technique cause i remember someone telling me it doesn't work... o well i guess i'll have to try it myself! What's your method by the way?

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:38 am

For a wash, i use Tamiya acrylic thinners. Various different mixes, but for something like the new Republic Star Destroyer(Just for example), a thin wash to bring out the panelling, i'd just do 80% thinners 19% black(1% luck..).
I buy large bottles of thinners(Well, 250ml), but there is a thread here where a guy has had the tamiya acrylic thinners chemically anylised so he could make up his own in large quantities(I'm not a chemist, but there would seem to be a good formula there).
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:46 am

i use future as a top coat, wont the tamiya acrylic thinner destroy the future coat? even in sludge washes?

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:55 am

Not if it is dry. Future is an acrylic clear-coat.
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:59 am

Thanks Bar. Get some sleep bro! you on a deadline or something? Good luck on your project man!

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:03 am

I am working tomorrow, so i want to stay awake as long as i can, to get back into my normal sleep pattern(It's 1402 right now, and i'll be trying to wait until at least 1900 if i can).
My project is really shaping up(If you PM me an e-mail address, i can send you a pic or two of what i'm making).
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:10 am

sent you the PM bro. thanks for the tips! i'll try that tamiya wash right now!

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:14 am

LuiS_42 wrote:sent you the PM bro. thanks for the tips! i'll try that tamiya wash right now!

Make sure you try it on a useless piece first, just in case...
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:32 am

will do.. just wasted money on that crappy Artist acrylic.. do you know why it's grainy? well i think it's the paint itself. nuff said!

Bar · Post by **Bar** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:40 am

It's maybe designed to be used on canvas?
It's a more forgiving medium(And little flakes won't make a lot of difference).
Bar.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:47 am

Yeah, i guess i could still use it on Large scale models that i got. like the rebel snowspeeder. but i think i'll like the tamiya or gunze wash more.LOL

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 1:11 pm

The one thing I learned using acrylics for washes is make sure you have a glossy surface...

Dan

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 2:23 pm

Instead of acrylics, you can use watercolors - then you don't have the paint media to deal with and water can be used to remove excess. Flow-aid will help.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:00 pm

Watercolor.. hey that's a great idea..

might i ask for a preffered brand?

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:55 pm

Don't get the really cheap stuff, that's all. A bit in water with flo-aid and probably a bit of slo-dri (drying retarder) helps. Then once it's dry (not long) you can use a Q-tip to remove excess.

You can make a clear glaze with watercolors or inks and Future - with some extra flo-aid and drying retarder...of course. Great for effects.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:11 pm

Also artist oils. About the same technique really.

Terry, is there any difference in look with oils vs watercolors? I've never used watercolors before...

Dan

Post by **TER-OR** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:29 pm

For panel lines, you can't tell the difference. I haven't done larger areas like oil stains and such, yet. I think oils might be better for smearing and staining areas - as it remains more mobile.

I really like using watercolors for panel lines, they're quick, odorless and perform quite well.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 8:44 am

Cool....I just wanted to know if I should switch, or keep what I've got...I've inherited a whole mess 'o oils, most of them still OK. They are incredibly easy to work with, that's for sure.

Dan

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:01 pm

Both have their uses - oils can be more subtle, but I find watercolors are fine for panel lines espescially.

LuiS_42 · Post by **LuiS_42** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:36 am

Thanks for the watercolor tip Ter-or. bought some winsor and newton.. worked like a charm.. BTW, what ratio do you put tamiya flatbase with future to get that really flat finish? thanks

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:55 pm

Oof, ratios? A dollop base per smidge of Future.

Isn't there a thread about dullcoats? I honestly don't know how much I added - but it was a fair amount. I guess I should figure out before I mix another batch....

zaphod · Post by **zaphod** » Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:43 am

A few years ago in Finescale Modeler, Paul Boyer shared his ratio. He uses 3 parts acrylic model paint to 5 parts water and ~1 part dish soap, the change the surface tension. I use Dawn dish soap, because it doesn't have skin moisturizers. Also, I use distilled water when I remember to.

As far as water colors, check out Jerry's Artarama. The museum-quality artists' paints tend to have smaller pigment particle size than their low-cost counterparts.