Basecoat: why?

[Atticus]

Y'all:

I am a weathering n00b, so pardon the possible stupidity of this question.

I've read posts, how-to's, and what-not about applying a base coat to a kit before the main color. Why?

I read a lot about the necessity of preserving fine detail, yet applying two coats of paint (or even more) seems to run counter to this necessity.

What are the benefits of a base coat for a kit like the FM Millennium Flacon? How does a base coat facilitate weathering?

And what type/color of paint makes a good base coat? A big can of Krylon automotive primer from Ace Hardware?

I know that in the end the answer is, of course, "it all depends on what you want to do," but humor me! Let me believe there is a simple answer. ;-)

TIA,

Atticus

[Digger1]

Primer is necessary to give the paint that you're going to spray the model with something to stick to. Otherwise, when you mask and lift away the tape, you risk lifting up some of the paint with the tape. With a primer coat down the chances of that happening is next to nil.

Primer is also useful for detection surface flaws and imperfections before you apply the top coat to 'er. Shoot it with primer, get to the problem areas, re-shoot and apply the paint.

[Kylwell]

I only use a primer coat when working with resin or dissimular materials (metal & styrene or the like). It's also, as Bab noted, useful for detecting surface flaws, specially when kit bashing.


Otherwise I usually don't bother. Why? Rarely have the need for it.

With the FMMF I'd use somethgn like Mr. Surfacer 1200 or Tamiya Fine gray, as some primers are thick and will obscure detail.

As far as weathering is concerned, it will give you a tougher surface but other than that it doesn't make much diffence one way or another.

[woozle]

I've gotten in the habit of putting a couple coats of Future on, before painting. Besides making a good basecoat (on or under primer), if the painting goes all to poop, a simple amonia wipe takes it all off really easily.

[TER-OR]

With Styrene, I don't bother with a basecoat. I usually use Tamiya or Gunze-Sangyo acrylics, but also use Testors and Polyscale. Make sure the plastic is CLEAN! I mean really clean. Not only water, but use somethign like Windex with a lintfree paper towel to ensure all oils from your hands are removed.

AFter your base color is applied, a coat of Future is a very good idea if you need to mask, and use a good masking tape like Tamiya's.

With resin or metal, a primer is a good idea. I've been using Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer in the rattlcan.

[woozle]

Oddly enough, as an example of what I said above.. I'm trying to make half a dozen nice white missiles, but by the third coat of paint, they where going just plain wrong. I gave them a quick amonia scrub and the Future came right off, leaving the bare plastic again.

[TER-OR]

Ammonia is great - Windex or other cleaners with ammonia will completely remove acrylic paints. It's the best stuff to clean plastic with - though I do like Poly Scale's Plastic Prep.

[big-dog]

I fudged up some weathering with acrylics after a great basecoat, if you let the basecoat and Future really dry, like a copula days, and don't try to brute force the weahtering, as in be able to say, this looks like crap, at the time you can simply wipe the mess away with water, without harming anything underneath.

[Atticus]

I know this is late, but thanks for the replies!

I've attached all of the greeblies to the Falcon's upper and lower hulls, and can start painting. But I have another question about basecoats vis a vis pre-shading:

Seems that the consensus is that I don't need to add a basecoat for a styrene kit. However, if I want to preshade the Falcon's panel lines, do I apply, say, gray or black directly to the unpainted hull surfaces, then apply layers of the final color? Or if I'm preshading, do I then need to add a basecoat of, say, a light gray or white?

Head...spinning..round...on...axis....

Thanks!

Atticus
Who's trying really hard not to ruin his multi-hundred-dollar investment in kit and paints

[irishtrek]

Example: if you want the look to have a touch of blue then apply a base coat of blue.

[TER-OR]

I like using gradients in painting - mostly post-shading. Base, dark, light, base is the order. That lets you make it as subtle as you like.

[Atticus]

So as usual, the answer is "it depends on your preference." :-)

For the Falcon, I'm thinking of putting down a basecoat of neutral gray, then adding a couple of white/lt. gray coats.

Plz let me know if this will anger the Modeling Gods.

[Kolschey]

As a scratchbuilder/kitbasher, I find that a good primer is essential.

Oftentimes, the underlying color of various greeblies will try to work it's way through, particularly if they have an unusually smooth or waxy texture despite sanding. My solution is a coat of great Rustoleum primer, which is visually consistent with many Sci-Fi constructs, and is sufficiently neutral as to be receptive to any overcoat.

Hope this helps.

[Atticus]

As a scratchbuilder/kitbasher, I find that a good primer is essential.

Oftentimes, the underlying color of various greeblies will try to work it's way through, particularly if they have an unusually smooth or waxy texture despite sanding. My solution is a coat of great Rustoleum primer, which is visually consistent with many Sci-Fi constructs, and is sufficiently neutral as to be receptive to any overcoat.

Hope this helps.

That makes sense.

So, then, what's a good brand of primer? I've seen Future mentioned frequently on these forums, but don't know anything about it.

Oh, and while I'm here--how do you stop an airbrush from splattering paint? Clean the nozzle? Thin the mixture? Buy a better airbrush?

(oops, now my post will be locked and moved to the "Finishing" forum for sure)

Atticus

[Mark Yungblut]

One thing to consider if you use a gray primer on a subject like the FMMF you will have already done your preshading as well as putting a stable base for further painting.

[TER-OR]

The finishing forum is where this thread belongs.

Airbrush problems have been covered in the airbrushing forum.
Spattering can be caused by low pressure, thick paint, and worn tips and any combination of the above.

[Mr. Badwrench]

So, then, what's a good brand of primer? I've seen Future mentioned frequently on these forums, but don't know anything about it.

Future isn't really for a base coat. (Wow, I never thought I'd say it, but maybe there is something Future can't do!) "Future" is Future brand Floor polish, aka "Johnson's Kleer" in Europe and England. I don't know what they call it elsewhere. It's a self leveling, tough, crystal clear acrylic, which can be painted on by hand or airbrushed. It can be thinned with Windex or amonia. It has too many uses to be listed in a short post, but is mostly used for a finishing gloss coat, and improving clarity on canopies. But a base coat it is not.

I've used a lot of different primers, but the best I've seen so far is Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1200. It is a lacquer based primer, rather hot, but it goes on smooth and provides an excellent base for painting. It can be purchased in spray cans, (which I've never seen), or in a little jar. The stuff in a jar can be brush painted or thinned with lacquer thinner and shot through an airbrush. Mr. Surfacer also comes in thicker varieties, 1000 and 500, which are great for filling in minor surface scratches, but which cannot be airbrushed, (at least not that I've heard tell).

[Atticus]

OK, so I put down a neutral gray primer (enamel) on my Falcon, and have let it dry/cure for about two weeks (more by schedule than choice). I think it went well, considering what an awful n00b I am.

Next, I can put down light layers of either enamel or acrylic on top of the enamel primer, as I have sets of colors (whites and light grays) for both types of paint.

I'm leaning towards acrylic, as from what I've read, you can apply acrylics on top of an enamel base, and because I've never worked with acrylics, would like to try them. Or should I stick with the enamel all the way through? I suppose like most things, it's a matter of personal preference...?

Thanks!

Atticus