OK, idiots guide to washes URGENT HELP NEEDED, N00B ALERT!!

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
robgmun
Posts: 1292
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:48 am
Location: London

OK, idiots guide to washes URGENT HELP NEEDED, N00B ALERT!!

Post by robgmun »

I've been reading this part of the forums for a bit now and i've come to the point where I'm going to do a wash on my Mini-BSG from Cobywan. So this is what i'm going to do and please tell me if i'm going to something do wrong.

Step 1: I've done all my painting with thinned Tamiya Acrylic paint (thinned with Tamiya thinner 33% to 66% paint) so i don't lose any details

Step 2: I'm going to spray a clear coat using Tamiya rattle can which the store owner tell me is a Gloss coat.

Step 3: Prepare the wash which i plan to be 5% paint to 95% thinner.

Step 4: Paint the rasied panels ONLY on my Battlestar. Then immidantly remove the paint with cotton buds. Allow the rest to dry for 1hr.

Step 5: Repeat step 4 until the panels lines appear darker then the panels themselves.

Step 6: Lets 'cure' for 24hrs or so.

Step 7: Then using Mirco Sol/Micro Set add the decals.

Step 8: Lets 'cure' for 24hrs or so.

Step 9: Spray on Dull Coat, allow to dry DONE!!

This is the very first time i'll be doing this so please give any advice or warnings to what i'm about to do.

Thanks

Robert
User avatar
rpauly
Posts: 3428
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:47 am
Location: Home of the Mountaineers
Contact:

Post by rpauly »

If your base coat of paint is acrylic, your clear coat should be enamel or lacquer. (Otherwise, when you use your wash, your thinner will eat through the clear and base coats of paint.) Make sure your base coat has had a few days to dry and cure before applying the clear coat. When you mix your wash (I'm assuming an acrylic wash, here...again, use a dissimilar paint to your protective coat), mix a drop or three of dish washing detergent in your slush to break up the surface tension of the mix. It'll keep the mix from forming beads on the surface of the model....
Progress isn't made by early risers. It's made by lazy men trying to find easier ways to do something.
- Robert Heinlein
User avatar
robgmun
Posts: 1292
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:48 am
Location: London

Post by robgmun »

rpauly wrote:If your base coat of paint is acrylic, your clear coat should be enamel or lacquer. (Otherwise, when you use your wash, your thinner will eat through the clear and base coats of paint.)
I'm a bit confused by this, sorry but your not being clear, Enamel = Gloss? Therefore my rattle can idea for addeding a gloss coat will be OK?
rpauly wrote: When you mix your wash (I'm assuming an acrylic wash, here...again, use a dissimilar paint to your protective coat), mix a drop or three of dish washing detergent in your slush to break up the surface tension of the mix. It'll keep the mix from forming beads on the surface of the model....
Thanks for that! Good advice there, yes it will be a an acrylic wash on a gloss coat, so that will be OK?
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29650
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Even better, use a sludge wash (pastel dust and water) or artists oils.

Enamel refers to the type of paint, even though many acrylic paints are labeled 'acrylic enamel'. Tamiya spray bombs are a synthetic laquer, what that means is that alchol will attack the paint even after it cures.

This is why washes are the most irritating and difficult (to me) paint/weathering skills.

If in doubt, test your wash on an area that won't been easily seen.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7311
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

ROb,

Check this thread out:

http://starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpB ... hp?t=15835

I think it should help.

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.
Post Reply