Permanent Marker Bleed Through

[Wug]

Hi,

Months ago I used permanent markers on the bare plastic of a model to indicate areas that needed sanding or cutting. Now I've primed the parts and the markers bled through the primer and the marks are still visible.

Has any one else had this happen? Is there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about a barrier coat of Future or clear Testors enamel.

The markers are a Sharpie and a Liqui-Mark. I primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color Thinner.

Thanks,

Mike

[SpaceDuck]

Yup,
I've seen whatever "ink" is in a marker bleed through acrylics and enamels before. Grab a lacquer based primer- like Model Master Lacquer grey primer in a rattle can, multiple light mist coats with plenty of dry time and it should 'stay down'. As long as your prior coats are good and cured you should be able to coat over them. I try to avoid leaving reference marks though and I make mine with a pencil. Once your done and no longer need them just sand 'em off. I guess you will next time?

Good Luck

[DX-SFX]

You don't want to spray a lacquer paint on top of an enamel or modelling acrylic. It's likely to pickle the paint and the acetone in it will likely wet the ink up and have it bleed through again. Thin quick drying coats of a water based acrylic would be best (assuming a spirit based ink) but other paints might work eventually.

[SpaceDuck]

You don't want to spray a lacquer paint on top of an enamel or modelling acrylic. It's likely to pickle the paint and the acetone in it will likely wet the ink up and have it bleed through again. Thin quick drying coats of a water based acrylic would be best (assuming a spirit based ink) but other paints might work eventually.

If you avoid "wet" coats and the acrylic or enamel is really cured it does usually work- well, I should have prefaced that by saying for 'me' at least? It's possible that a fairly heavy and wet coat of Mr. Surfacer was applied as you sometimes do to get plenty of primer to stand up to sanding and that if it had been applied in mist coats this wouldn't have appeared at all. But I like to put down plenty of primer when I think I'm going to need it and that probably gave the markers time to act up?

Since it's a primer coat and the effected areas were marked for cut lines and such what's wrong with just sanding down to the original joints in those areas? Then you can overcoat as you please?

Well, Good Luck.

[TER-OR]

I actually use this in my typical panel line tricks...
But it can be annoying when not in an intentional area...

[SpaceDuck]

I was thinking this over some more and it still bothers me. Here's a case where you're trying to fix a 'muckup' (which doesn't always happen) and I'm recommending something that "usually" (well, always) works for me. But, sometimes bad luck keeps snowballing and even if you were to overcoat it in lacquer you'd later run the risk of sanding down through that lacquer and exposing the acrylic base coat which puts you at risk again and if bad luck holds out- well, further frustration. Since it is a primer coat and you'll still be doing work I'd (this IMHO FWIW) go ahead and sand down to the plastic in the effected areas and then reprime with Mr. Surfacer as long as that's what you like to use?

Regardless what you do- Good Luck.

[Wug]

Thanks everybody,

I'd like to avoid sanding down to the plastic so I'll try more Mr. Surfacer.

Thanks again,

Mike