I am looking for a good clear glass-like finish to seal wooden and/or painted bases.
I have used Modge Podge. It covers well and gives me the finish I want. BUT after six months or so it apparently dries out and frosts with millions of little fractures deep with the smooth finish. You can see this a little bit in in this picture: http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e9/mo ... D7Base.jpg
The sparklie bits were just the beginning. Now they have connected the dots.
Said sealer shouldn't eat my brain with harmful fumes. And, since I don't used an airbrush, I am hoping for something that I can apply with a brush or sponge.
I suppose Future might work but it would take maybe twenty or so applications to get the finish I hope for.
Any suggestions?
-Leelan
Looking for a good glaze
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Try Polycrylic, available in the varnish/stain dept of hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.
Milky looking in the can, dries clear in a few hours.
Takes 3-4 coats to build up a decent thickness, once fully cured (about a week) it can be wet sanded for a glass smooth finish, then one more coat will give you a super deep gloss finish.
It can be used over oil based finishes if they're fully cured and the surface is free of any loose oils or other contaminants.
No matter what the base is finished with, make sure its full cured before you coat it, I wait at least a week before I do anything.
Ken
Edited for spelling
Milky looking in the can, dries clear in a few hours.
Takes 3-4 coats to build up a decent thickness, once fully cured (about a week) it can be wet sanded for a glass smooth finish, then one more coat will give you a super deep gloss finish.
It can be used over oil based finishes if they're fully cured and the surface is free of any loose oils or other contaminants.
No matter what the base is finished with, make sure its full cured before you coat it, I wait at least a week before I do anything.
Ken
Edited for spelling
Last edited by kenlilly106 on Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I'd use aerosol lacquer- dries fast, sands out easily, and it's shiny. It does have fumes, but use it outside or wear a respirator.
Shellac can work well too, with fewer fumes- it's thinned with alcohol, and they squeeze shellac out of bugs. Again, sands down easily between coats. Add a top coat of car wax to either for extra shine.
I don't like polyurethanes because they take so long to dry dust motes WILL settle on the finish, and they cure rock hard. Great for a kid's play table, not so good for finish sanding.
Re-read the original question- shellac and lacquer both go on easily with a brush, and any brush marks will sand right out with 600 grit sandpaper or 000 steel wool. Do a search for "piano finish" to get more detailed instructions.
Shellac can work well too, with fewer fumes- it's thinned with alcohol, and they squeeze shellac out of bugs. Again, sands down easily between coats. Add a top coat of car wax to either for extra shine.
I don't like polyurethanes because they take so long to dry dust motes WILL settle on the finish, and they cure rock hard. Great for a kid's play table, not so good for finish sanding.
Re-read the original question- shellac and lacquer both go on easily with a brush, and any brush marks will sand right out with 600 grit sandpaper or 000 steel wool. Do a search for "piano finish" to get more detailed instructions.