Vinyl Tape?
Moderators: Joseph C. Brown, Moderators
Vinyl Tape?
I notice some people detailing their scratchbuilds with vinyl tape instead of thin layers of styren stock. Where can I get some to try this out?
I know of two places...
One is at automotive stores, sold as "pinstriping". It's usually around where the little chrome doodads that you can "customize" your "ride" with are, or near the rack of generic replacement door handles and such.
The other place is at office supply stores near where they sell different signage like No Smoking, and/or where the dry erase boards are. I think it's used to make lines on dry erase boards, and is sometimes known as "geo tape". Just make sure it's the vinyl kind because I think there's also a paper version.
-Rog
One is at automotive stores, sold as "pinstriping". It's usually around where the little chrome doodads that you can "customize" your "ride" with are, or near the rack of generic replacement door handles and such.
The other place is at office supply stores near where they sell different signage like No Smoking, and/or where the dry erase boards are. I think it's used to make lines on dry erase boards, and is sometimes known as "geo tape". Just make sure it's the vinyl kind because I think there's also a paper version.
-Rog
I bought a roll of Pactra Trim Tape about 10 years ago and it is still going strong. Essentially it's vinyl tape, extremely adhesive and very strong. One roll has eight different widths from around half an inch to 1/32nd of an inch.
You get a lot of tape in the roll too.
I have found it an invaluable masking tool as it doesn't 'lift' the paint when being removed and it is very thin while retaining it's dimensions.
The tape can be bought here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XCY75&P=SM
Hope this helps.
You get a lot of tape in the roll too.
I have found it an invaluable masking tool as it doesn't 'lift' the paint when being removed and it is very thin while retaining it's dimensions.
The tape can be bought here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XCY75&P=SM
Hope this helps.
- Squall67584
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I remember reading somewhere, most likely on a build on this site, where someone was building a aliens style drop ship and they used those nametag stickers. Even though they're paper, I remember him saying he put a few light coats of primer over them and they didn't degrade after paint started to go on. At work, we have a label making printer that uses labels about 2.5 cm X 7cm. Some of them are white paper like the name tag stickers, but others are a clear plastic-feeling material. I've got a few rolls that were "liberated" but so far haven't used them yet. They're about as thin as, well, paper. So depending on what sort of effect you're going for, these could be used for paneling or something like that.
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I haven't used the office supply kind for anything like a model, but the automotive pinstriping tape will never come off. Ever. One of my least favorite things about working at an autobody shop was having to take off old pinstriping. You couldn't sand it because it was like trying to sand chewing gum, so you had to gently heat it and scrape with a razor blade, trying not to gouge the surface and create even more work for yourself.Dufaeth wrote:Are there any special considerations building with vinyl tape? Do you have to worry about de-lamination? What about painting it?
So I wouldn't worry about it.
-Rog
- Jason Abbadon
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Any sign shop will sel you it by the square foot- usually about $5-6.
Better though is to just give them a line art file (adobe Illustrator is perfect) of the shapes you want to make- they can "print" the shapes into the vinyl- this means the sign machine precision cuts out the shapes- ready to apply, be it letters or, in our case, raised details on a model.
I've done thiis several times for Nova Hobbies kits- my job printed the details on his Vulcan cruiser and many of the raised armor on his NeghVar kit.
Better though is to just give them a line art file (adobe Illustrator is perfect) of the shapes you want to make- they can "print" the shapes into the vinyl- this means the sign machine precision cuts out the shapes- ready to apply, be it letters or, in our case, raised details on a model.
I've done thiis several times for Nova Hobbies kits- my job printed the details on his Vulcan cruiser and many of the raised armor on his NeghVar kit.
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- Joseph C. Brown
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A potential alternative detailing method (which will take lots of pre-planning):Jason Abbadon wrote:
Better though is to just give them a line art file (adobe Illustrator is perfect) of the shapes you want to make- they can "print" the shapes into the vinyl- this means the sign machine precision cuts out the shapes- ready to apply, be it letters or, in our case, raised details on a model.
-Prep the model as usual.
-Prime the model.
-Apply your clever and cunning insanely detailed (and pre-cut) vinyl pattern.
-Re-prime.
-Remove the vinyl.
This way, you have fairly neat recessed detailing - and you didn't drive yourself wacky doing it.
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I was able to cut vinyl strips for RogueWolf.
If anyone sends me an illustrator file (Saved as Ver 10) I can cut it on my vinyl cutter.
PM me first with details.
And if you plan on doing Joseph's method, best to go with "low-tack" vinyl. Some, but not all of the standard vintl is tough to remove after it is applied.
Glen
If anyone sends me an illustrator file (Saved as Ver 10) I can cut it on my vinyl cutter.
PM me first with details.
And if you plan on doing Joseph's method, best to go with "low-tack" vinyl. Some, but not all of the standard vintl is tough to remove after it is applied.
Glen
True, although my problems with it would be that by design it stretches and the adhesive tends to ooze over time. I don't even use it for electrical connections anymore because of some messes that were created with it.mightymax wrote:Electrical tape is vinyl tape and comes in many colors.
Max Bryant
-Rog
Really? I have a 1969 Z-28 model I made when I was 18. That was 30 years ago. I used white Electrical tape for the hood and deck striping. Looks as good as it did 30 years ago!Rogviler wrote: True, although my problems with it would be that by design it stretches and the adhesive tends to ooze over time. I don't even use it for electrical connections anymore because of some messes that were created with it.
-Rog
Good luck with you model.
Max
Hmm, are you talking about the color-coding "phasing" or "phase" tape? I've never used that, only the insulating type, which definitely has problems with loss of adhesion and/or gooey adhesive. I think both are referred to as "electrical tape"... I would think that the type used for color coding would stick better.mightymax wrote:Really? I have a 1969 Z-28 model I made when I was 18. That was 30 years ago. I used white Electrical tape for the hood and deck striping. Looks as good as it did 30 years ago!
-Rog
Rogviler wrote:Hmm, are you talking about the color-coding "phasing" or "phase" tape? I've never used that, only the insulating type, which definitely has problems with loss of adhesion and/or gooey adhesive. I think both are referred to as "electrical tape"... I would think that the type used for color coding would stick better.mightymax wrote:Really? I have a 1969 Z-28 model I made when I was 18. That was 30 years ago. I used white Electrical tape for the hood and deck striping. Looks as good as it did 30 years ago!
-Rog
Don't know. I went to the local hardware (remember those) and bought a roll of white tape. I did not know there was a difference. Also maybe like everything else, they just made it better 30 years ago...
Cheers,
Max