Hello again guys,
I am new model builder with a question regarding sandpaper for sanding model seams etc,
I have a pack of Tamiya P800(Dry) at the moment and was wondering what specific job on the model i can use this for! I was thinkin of using it to take down the seams after using Tamiya ultra thin cement?!
Can any of you also explain the various grits on model sandpaper and the related job they can be used for?
Thanks in advance for all answers!
Tamiya P800 sandpaper question!
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Johnnycrash
- Posts: 5563
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 12:57 pm
- Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
The grit rating on sand paper refers to the number of grains of "sand" per inch. So, the higher the number, the more grit, and the finer it is. Wet/Dry means it can be used with or without water. Dry means it can ONLY be used dry. Sanding wet is best way to go, regardless of the grit.
I use Wet/Dry 220 wet (using it wet is better then dry - keeps the paper clog free) for most of the prep work. Seams after filling, removal of detail, and reshaping bits and the like. After I get that done, I switch to a finer grit, like 400 to really smooth out the surface. In most cases, you don't really need to go much finer than that.
400, 600, 1000, 2000, 3000 is a progressive use for dealing with defects in clear parts. You scratched it, or need to reshape it, but still need it to be clear afterwards. Then you can get into a polish, which is even finer than those, and usually comes as a liquid. Oh yeah. After all that on the clear part, dip it in Future Floor Polish. That's the final step to make it damn near perfect.
400, 600, 1000 can be used to help fix blemishes in paint. Things like runs, or orange peel. This will dull the paint, so you may need to then clear coat, but the surface will be very smooth.
Head on over to your favorite automotive supply store. They will most likely have a multi pack of various grits in wet/dry and will be WAY cheaper than the Tamiya stuff. And you will get WAY more of it too.
I use Wet/Dry 220 wet (using it wet is better then dry - keeps the paper clog free) for most of the prep work. Seams after filling, removal of detail, and reshaping bits and the like. After I get that done, I switch to a finer grit, like 400 to really smooth out the surface. In most cases, you don't really need to go much finer than that.
400, 600, 1000, 2000, 3000 is a progressive use for dealing with defects in clear parts. You scratched it, or need to reshape it, but still need it to be clear afterwards. Then you can get into a polish, which is even finer than those, and usually comes as a liquid. Oh yeah. After all that on the clear part, dip it in Future Floor Polish. That's the final step to make it damn near perfect.
400, 600, 1000 can be used to help fix blemishes in paint. Things like runs, or orange peel. This will dull the paint, so you may need to then clear coat, but the surface will be very smooth.
Head on over to your favorite automotive supply store. They will most likely have a multi pack of various grits in wet/dry and will be WAY cheaper than the Tamiya stuff. And you will get WAY more of it too.
John Fleming
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
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USSARCADIA
- Posts: 1950
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 7:29 pm