Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

It *should* work. If you have one, test with a spare decal.

Vern

- Apply a gloss coat that is chemically different from your color coat. Future is always a good choice. - Dip your decal in warm water for about 30 seconds. You can mix in some PVA glue (Elmer's) to help the decals stick. Place on a piece of paper towel to drain excess water. Let it sit for about a ...

TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan wrote: ↑Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:16 pm In the same way the SSM site provides decals modelers have designed to print out, it would be pretty nice if there were some section of the site here in which people can share Arduino scripts.

That is an awesome idea!

Vern

Dang. Have you considered Solvaset?

Vern

Hmmm... Round2 decals?

To be clear, you want to use the SOL (red bottle). This is the secret sauce that makes it work.

Vern

Only thing I can think of is not having a wet surface on the model when appying the decal, I DO wet the surface only with Micro SOL (the blue one) Thats the only thing I could think of that's causing this - happened on my last two/three models! Micro Set is the blue bottle. It is a wetting agent an...

Alclad II Aqua Gloss Klear Kote Varnish (ALC600) is chemically almost identical to Future. I've not tried hand-painting this on, but it coats well enough with a cheap spray-gun until you replace your airbrush. It goes on Alclad finishes without destroying the metallic look. Is there any advantage t...

me, too

Easy Lift Off and repaint?

Vern

Do you think they would sharpen well?

Vern

How light?

Seriously, how do these compare to your really nice chisels?

Vern

I've used batting, tracing paper, frosted gels.

Vern

Kewl! I have been wanting to try the lacquer thinner for airbrushing. Would Mr. Color Leveling Thinner work, too?

Use the lacquer thinner for brush painting, correct?

Vern

I got a 500 count box of pipettes from Amazon (50ml, I think) for $15 a while back. Much cheaper than the Testors and pretty sturdy. I had been reusing the pipettes for thinner for a long time and they just recently split.

I need to order more...

Vern

I am.

Vern

I'm looking at doing some fine antennas - GMM's Enterprise radars and ParaGrafix's Pilgrim Observer dishes. I need to pick up a butane torch for larger parts. I will experiment with some frets.

Thanks!

Vern

I need to anneal some photo-etch on my stove top. How high should I set the burner and when will I know that it has been heated enough?

Thanks!

Vern

I have had good luck with Scotch Magic Tape. The higher tack will lift off the residue. Dab it.

Vern

I will try both. Thanks, guys!

Vern

Last night, I made my first attempt at salt masking. Didn't go well. The water didn't want to spread out.

So, what should I use to break the surface tension of the water? Flat finish? Dish soap? Any suggestions welcome.

Vern

Kylwell wrote:Heat shrink tubing.

Seconded.

Vern

Thanks for the link, it's exactly what I was looking for! Could I use that type of alcohol to clean off the clumpy coat of paint that's already on the model? Like if I soaked the parts in the alcohol, could I wipe off the paint? You're welcome. I don't think soaking in alcohol will allow you to rem...

Tamiya is one of the worse for brush painting. Doesn't level well and dries very quickly which makes it clumpy. Actually, you have to know how to thin it properly. This technique works like a champ! Used it for detail painting on my Monkeemobile blower, which Kylwell saw right after I painted it. h...

He sent me his primer on electronics a few years back while I was in Iraq. One of those guys I wanted to meet in person. Peace and strength to his family.

Vern

I have been commissioned to build a tesla gun from Warehouse 13. Instead of using machined aluminum for the frame, I am going with polycarbonate. The client wants this to be a "hero prop." So, it will need to be able to hold up to scrutiny and be durable. Question - what would be the best ...

My Badger 350 was a prized possession until I upgraded to the Iwata Revolution. Be careful when cleaning it. The rubber O ring on the tip can be torn easily. Lacquer thinner will eat that and the rubber seal in the needle. You can get extra needles for it (H, M, F). I was able to do freehand camoufl...

Antenociti wrote:well, if you get a pressure pot you wont need to vacuum the RTV moulds, just pressure-cast them also - job done.

I was under the impression that if you pressure cast with a mold that hadn't been vacuumed, the mold would collapse. Is this not correct?

Vern

I made a one-part mold. The inside of the bulkhead is inside the plenum chamber and not visible. I am using Alumilite. The pot life is only a couple of minutes and it is even shorter with the small batches I am mixing. A couple of the voids were caused by trying to get a little more resin in the mol...