Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

No personal experience, but it shouldn't. Tenax (and similar) work by melting the plastic together. When done properly, the two pieces essentially become one. So, the glue is not holding it together, the plastic is.

This Forum clearly no longer has active, 24/7 moderation. There's simply no substitute for someone being able to see a New Post and to then kick it into quarantine, at the very, very least. People have lives, and this is a *free* forum, so nobody's getting paid to moderate. Yeah, SPAM is annoying, ...

Yes. Just make sure to only cut it where indicated. Then individual strips inside the model can be connected in series using thin wire. I did exactly this for under cabinet lighting in my kitchen. I ran wires to bridge things like the stove and sink and make one continuous strip throughout the entir...

What you need is a DPDT switch that includes a center off position. Some don't. With the correct switch, the load would be on the center contacts, and two two power supplies on the two outsides. Positive all along on edge, negative on the other. It would look similar to this: http://www.littelfuse.c...

I have the triple action handle. It works well. My main complaint with it, is that you can no longer remove the needle from the front, as many people recommend for cleaning, to prevent pulling paint from the cup backwards into the seal and trigger assembly. I haven't seen the preset handle in person...

Do you do any cleaning *before* removing the needle?

If not, and you're pulling the needle from the rear, you're pulling paint into the back seal, where it's very hard to clean from.

Also, after cleaning, I generally leave my needle out, and re-assemble just before using again.

Well...I'm familiar with the acrylic they're using for these LEDs. There are two flavors, one optimized for edge lighting, and another optimized for diffusion with back-lighting. I'm thinking warp grills and such cut specifically to size and shape for specific models might be quite useful to a lot ...

I've purchased lots from him at Wonderfest over the years. The quality of his stuff is top notch - you won't be disappointed.

Haven't ordered from his website though, so I can't comment on that.

Agreed, a test is always best.

I've used lots of his decals, and haven't had to coat them, although doing so could make them more resistant to scratches while handling them.

You could use matte paints, then clear coat with gloss before decaling. It's an extra step, but one that many people take anyway.

You'll want to use gloss paints, as decals apply to those best. If you want a duller finish when you're all done, you can hit it with a clear flat coat. Since it's an apartment, you'll probably want to stick with Acrylic paints, since those have less fumes to worry about. Setting solution will not a...

I've used Mod Podge in the past with good resutls.

British Crimson.

See this buildup to see how it would look:
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/ss_surak2.htm

http://www.laserfirecreations.com/

Great guy, and does top notch work.

There are several companies that make generic sets, that are available from the SSM store, which is linked at the top of every forum page. And if you need them custom printed, you can get them directly from JT Graphics.

If you're going to WF, look thru JT's huge box of seconds. I did that last year and picked out a bunch just for the window decals.

There's always Micro-Mark, too.

http://www.micromark.com/NO-80-DRILL-BI ... ,6663.html

Would love to see it, but your site appears to be down. Can't even get DNS resolution on it.

Flat base is added to other paints to make them flat as opposed to glossy.

For primer, I use Rust-Oleum auto sandable primer. Cheaper than hobby paint and bonds real well.

I've done this for a long time, including MM Acryl. Never had a problem.

If your airbrush has brass parts, don't leave it submerged in anything with ammonia, by the way, as the ammonia will pit the brass and damage it. Nozzles are especially susceptible to this. Windex has ammonia in it. Superclean does not.Kenny Ack! I didn't know ammonia would pit brass. This has been...

Thanks! That's exactly what I've been looking for.

Ok, I picked up a Badger 360 and Sotar 20/20 from their garage sale. Sweet airbrushes. http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=59257&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Anyone know where to find adapters so I can connect them to my Iwata hose? Either screw-on or quick connect? I...

Backflush technique? Haven't heard of it. Please explain...

For the second one, ammonia or Windex will remove the future. I don't know if it will also remove the Krylon and/or paint. I'd suggest painting some scrap and testing what happens when you apply ammonia.

AS for the premade filters, I bought a set of them when I bought my Badger. I quit using them because the plastic mesh has too much "teeth," even when using the small mesh, leading to incomplete cleaning. The ones I posted above, from MicroMark, have Stainless Steel mesh. They filter grea...

I use these strainer funnels I picked up from Micromark. Of course, I only use the finest of the three, but I've had good luck with it.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.as ... t&ID=83119

Eric

I use Future mixed with Mr. Flat Base. By adjusting the mix ratio you can control the flatness. I've had great results with it.

Eric

Not to bash Aztec, but....

In one of David Fisher's presentations at WF, he mentioned that Testors was a sponsor of his videos, and insisted that he use an Aztec in them. I forget what he mentioned he normally uses.

Me? I started with an Aztec and now use an Iwata.

Eric

Look for chrome nail polish. This was recently discussed on a motorcycle forum I hang out on. Guys are using it to touch up real chrome on their bikes - if it works there, should work on a model.