Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

MillenniumFalsehood wrote:I like Plastic Welder made by Plastruct. I go through at least fifteen bottles a year.

Do you really?! You must be using allot of it cause my bottles usually last me a few months.

Future isn't sticking to my vacu-formed canopy. What can I use instead to shine it up?

It comes with a long coiled cose
It says it has a PSI range of 10-18. Is that enough?

so hardly any pulsing?

I'd love to hear the answer too. I'm also trying to compare compressors right now.

And you're sure this was the silver jet? It looks like this
http://www.aoeartworld.com/ProductImage ... rdware.jpg

anyone?...

I'm looking into getting the Iwata "Silver Jet" compressor. Is this a good compressor to run with my new Iwata Eclipse? If not then let me know of a better choice! Thanks

Also how is it noise-wise? I don't want some screaming compressor that hurts my ears.

I ordered an Iwata Eclipse last week from my local hobby shop. I've been using a single action POS Aztec for the last 6 years. It's going to be SOOO nice having a REAL airbrush. I'm hoping to pick it up tomorrow

This is the kind of look that I'm talking about.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/ ... wFront.jpg
I was almost totally fooled by this at first.

It's 1/72 and the cockpit is triangular. It's around 1" tall by 1/2" wide at the base.

On kits where there is no clear part for the cockpit, how do you give it the right cockpit look? Whenever I try to do this, it just looks like black paint... not a cockpit.

This is the current state of my Testors Airbrush. It leaks paint between the trigger and body, and also the body and the hose. I hate this POS!!! I'm very tempted to smash it up and take pictures. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/ReeverTempest/IMG_2212.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...

I actually bought Aves for the sole purpose of being able to scribe in it. Other putties were just chipping out when I tried to scribe in them.

I'm actually having the same exact problem with the Fantastic Plastic A-Wing. I barely touch a part with my fingernail and the primer chips right off. I also have tried cleaning the mold release off several times but it's still giving me issues

I'm looking for a good brand of paper towels that doesn't leave those stupid fibers all over my projects. Only reason this is in finishing is cause I use paper towels to wipe away the excess weathering stuff.

is it ok to use future over wax?

I need a REALLY shiny look on a resin piece of mine. I have some buffing compound for brass but I'm worried that it'd be too course. Also will resin melt easilly from buffing? I just use a dremel as my buffer but maybe I should be using something else.

BERT aka MODEL MAKER wrote:try testors clear parts cement/window maker

That's what I use

Whenever I try to cut brass tubing it always bends at the end where I cut it. How and I supposed to cut it without it doing this?

Try soaking the part in rubbing alcohol, window cleaner or an ammonia and water solution. You might need to scrub it out of seams with a soft toothbrush. I've never diluted future for dunk coating. Depending on the part, sometimes you can blot drops away as they form while the Future is wet. HTH Mi...

My Fine Molds Slave 1 cockpit was a bit scratched up when I received it. After giving it a dunk in Future I can see that there are spots where the future was too think and ran down the side similar to when you spray paint something in the same spot for too long. So is there any way to remove this? A...

Will CA-Glue work if I'm gluing part of a brass pipe into another piece? Or do I need to use something like JB Weld?

Kylwell wrote:Beside getting a copy made, slicing it up into (say) 1mm slices, flipping them and regluing.... no.

And I only know of that trick from reading this.

Wow that guy is insane! I would have just given up!

Oh well, thanks for the help. Guess I'll just have to scratchbuild one.

I have a piece that I need an exact copy of except mirrored. Is there any way I could go about doing that? Scratchbuilding one to be exactly the same as the other would be a royal PAIN

So whats a nice airbrush that wont get clogged allot and wont cost me all my limbs? I'm getting so darn sick of this aztec getting clogged literally every 10 seconds (even with near water consistency paint) that I just flat out smashed it to pieces with the bottom of my foot. So its time for a new b...

Yeah, it works really good on the skirt of boba fett's slave 1. But I dont know if I'd use it for scorch marks. Let us know how it turns out though

MillenniumFalsehood wrote:I have a Testors airbrush in my basement. I can't use it because the rubber hose it comes with has a leak.

Mine leaked too... but trust me, super glu fixes EVERYTHING

OR... If you use one of those testors aztec airbrushes and want decent results then you'll be replacing the nozzles every month or so...

move along accidental double post