Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

What's to universe coming to? GL cited as a language authority??

I'm happy to have stumbled upon this thread. I'm thinking of buying the Great White sometime soon, maybe with the first paycheck from my new job.

Checking out the parts before venturing on a one-day build is a really good idea. I tried doing something like that on New Year's Day, with a 1973-vintage Pyro dinosaur. I opened the box and started working, and realized that both outer halves of both back legs were short-shots, missing their "...

In my local HobbyTown, I noticed "Apoxie Clay" in the same-sized A and B containers as Sculpt. Is this a new product? I'm considering buying some as I have a styrene figure model with some short-shot parts (missing feet on leg halves). Anyone used it?

Not as insane as you might think. It can and I have. Works at treat. I think I tossed my paste out, due to frustration, but I may have to buy another sampler's worth, just to try it out. I have the "syringe" from a toner-refilling kit. Blunt-tipped, large-bore needle might just be the thi...

Wug wrote:Hi Whiteraven_2001,

I've airbrushed Mr. Surfacer on a vinyl kit. It worked fine. If you're worried test it on the pour stubs.

Mike

Why is it I never think of spraying the trimmed-off bits?

Thanks!

I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyway: anyone tried the spray on vinyl? I'm assuming, from having read to this point, it wouldn't be good.

Insane Aves paste question: Can it be thinned enough to be extruded through a syringe? I can see that would have some useful applications. Using the actual paste straight from the container is a pain.

Neb wrote:Just picked up some 1000, 1200, and Mr Resin Surfacer at my favorite LHS in Pittsburgh 2 weeks ago.

AB Charles?

Thanks for posting!

I read a lot of measurement-by-knife. Does anyone use anything more exact, or is it pretty much "close to equal will work?"

From what I remember, the kit ends up laying on its belly with its legs splayed out, because the joints are plastic-on-plastic, so both those suggestions help! I haven't received the kit yet, so I'm basing my question on a 30-plus-year-old memory. I'll be able to diagnose what might work when I get ...

I just won a "grail kit" on evil-Bay of something I had as a kid: "Pancho" the Grasshopper, a Hawk kit of a something on the order of 100/1 grasshopper. When I had it as a youngster, the joints flopped a lot. I was wondering if there was a way to make the joints tighter. Most of ...

You could even cheat a little by borrowing parts … I plan on cheating a lot; the vehicle appears to have a lot of Soviet and German design elements, such as the upper hull that looks like the top of a German vehicle. From my perspective, the turret and wheels look like the most difficult to recreat...

This is the subject of my musing. I really have always liked this design. It's the second one I've owned; I have no idea where the first is. I've moved several times since I finished it as a teenager, so I may or may not still have it.

Thanks for the link!

I guess I should have been more descriptive. The pins in the contour gauge are fairly thick. What I need is a gauge with finer pins. I was hoping Plastruct would have such a gauge, but there isn't anything in their catalog. Mine's from good ol' Sears and Roebuck. (Dayam, proportional dividers are ex...

I completely forgot about proportional dividers. I was going to get a digital caliper, but this might be easier. I'm figuring rounding to 2x should be sufficient, as getting a wholly accurate measurement to that percentage and transferring it to styrene might be a trick. I have a contour gauge, but ...

I'm thinking about doing this for an anime-style armored vehicle. Its current scale is 1/72; I'd like to create a 1/35, and I'm trying to wrap my head around the process, as I've never done it before. Can anyone perhaps provide or point me to an example? I really wish I'd bought the blueprinting boo...

Godfather wrote:How'bout expanding foam, like the one used for sealing & insulating?

That is a wicked diorama.... is it yours? And if it is, why haven't you shared before?

It should be a "simple" case of measuring an AMT BOP to determine its length in inches and dividing that by 30 (the size of the other kit). That should give you the percentage by which to increase the size of the hinges. I think. I'm somewhat math challenged, so if someone can back me up, ...

There are also rivet and weld bead decals from Archer Transfers.

I have a Humbrol-related question: I brushed some on the interior of a TBM-3, and some of the paint dried glossy, some matt. I'm wondering, perhaps I didn't stir enough?

I read somewhere that the best way to check is to paint the questionable area with silver paint. It apparently makes any problems obvious.

I can recall reading about inexpensive handkerchiefs soaked in tea. IIRC, that was used in a FineScale Modeler article quite some time ago. The author soaked the handkerchiefs, laid them out over a plastic beach ball and when they'd dried, the author cut them to shape. They were automatically given ...

I seem to recall reading somewhere that it was a good idea to trim as much of the "clear" part off a rehabilitated decal as possible, since this is where the yellowing appears/is most visible.

I just love it when someone mentions the loss of Special Orders 191 during Lee's Maryland Campaign as a departure point. Makes me feel that all the Civil War reading I've done wasn't in vain. So, would the South have developed a space program? Would the thus-fractured Union have reached the moon? Wo...