Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

OK, I've searched the fourms and haven't found a specific answer to my question, so I apologize if this basic question has already been covered a million times. I don't always search very well. So--as a weathering/airbrushing novice, I'm curious as to the general "why?" behind clear coatin...

Hey, gang: I pre-ordered a couple of the FM Y-wing kits, and to mark the occasion, I'm considering upgrading my airbrush setup from the cheapie Aztec compressor/airbrush I used for the FM Falcon, to something of higher quality. The caveats here are that I'm still an airbrushing novice and I don't do...

Hey, y'all: I apologize in advance if this question belongs in another forum. In any event, slow as I am, I'll be finished with my FM Falcon in another month (has taken me only six!), and barring any disasters (prays), she's looking surprisingly good for my first serious, large-scale airbrushing/wea...

I had the wife buy me a set of eyeshadow applicators on her way home from work. :-) In any event, I practiced on my spare ERTL Falcon tonight, and had good results experimenting with the both ends of the applicator (fat tip, skinny tip), and using both the flat side and edges of the sponges tips. Al...

Thanks for the tip (pun intended)! I'll "borrow" one from my wife. :-) Att [/quote] I heartily recommend applying powdered pastels with eyeshadow sponges. They are teardrop-shaped and really allow for some very subtle effects. Not to mention they can be rinsed out an re-used. I hope this h...

Got it. Then if I want to weather with pastels (ie, create subtle streaks), but *not* with a wash, what's the best way? Should I powder the pastels then lightly brush on dry using an artist's brush or some sort of cloth? Seems like the obvious answer, but I don't want to assume anything.

Att

Hmmm...now I'm confused. Are you making a distinction between a pastel wash and pastel weathering in general? If so, how do I weather without using a wash?

Att

K:

Thanks for the pastel tip. Does this technique actually work for creating streaks, or only for highlighting panel lines and recesses?

Note that all the colors on my Falcon are flat, not gloss, so not sure if this will affect how the pastels will (or won't) adhere.

Att

Not to hijack this thread, but I've got a similar question: what's a good method for making dirt/oil/whatever streaks on my FMMF? I tried drybrushing browns and blacks on the lower hull, but the streaks don't look organic. Seems like a pastel wash or what-not would be a good medium, but how do you a...

OK, so I put down a neutral gray primer (enamel) on my Falcon, and have let it dry/cure for about two weeks (more by schedule than choice). I think it went well, considering what an awful n00b I am. Next, I can put down light layers of either enamel (MM) or acrylic (Tamiya) on top of the enamel prim...

OK, so I put down a neutral gray primer (enamel) on my Falcon, and have let it dry/cure for about two weeks (more by schedule than choice). I think it went well, considering what an awful n00b I am. Next, I can put down light layers of either enamel or acrylic on top of the enamel primer, as I have ...

My cheapie compressor arrived today, and although it is cheap, good lord it's a step up from using compressed air cans. So to get the booth, or not to get the booth...hmmm. I think it's overkill for this one project, epecially because I bought a ventilator mask, but perhaps I could be persuaded othe...

Thanks, Dan! That's a lot more affordable. Hm.

Att

Jonas Calhoun wrote:This booth is what I bought...$165, I got it just a bit cheaper...he changes the price every so often, I think.

Dan

After evaluating the situation and reading your posts, I've decided to postpone the project until the spring and use my garage (with the doors wide open), and also buy the respirator that "Godfather" recommended (I'm using Testor's enamels, although I've read that acrylics are just as toxi...

Yep, very stupid. Which is why I'm looking at alternatives. I'd rather quit the project then blow up my condo and/or end up with brain damage. The spare bedroom has two large windows that open, but how to set up ventilation of any sort, I have no idea. Testors' booth retails for several hundred doll...

Sorry for the resurrected thread! Thought it would be better to continue with an old one. I'm currently working on the FM Falcon, and have reached the point where I can start painting. It's important to note that I'm not in this for the long haul, just this one kit (OK, you got me, maybe a couple of...

As a scratchbuilder/kitbasher, I find that a good primer is essential. Oftentimes, the underlying color of various greeblies will try to work it's way through, particularly if they have an unusually smooth or waxy texture despite sanding. My solution is a coat of great Rustoleum primer, which is vi...

So as usual, the answer is "it depends on your preference." :-)

For the Falcon, I'm thinking of putting down a basecoat of neutral gray, then adding a couple of white/lt. gray coats.

Plz let me know if this will anger the Modeling Gods.

I know this is late, but thanks for the replies! I've attached all of the greeblies to the Falcon's upper and lower hulls, and can start painting. But I have another question about basecoats vis a vis pre-shading: Seems that the consensus is that I don't need to add a basecoat for a styrene kit. How...

Several folks who are currently working on the Fine Molds Falcon have mentioned using a Dremel drill to create battle damage on the hull (blast craters, scars, scrapes, etc). Which model of drill is recommended, and which attachment(s) and techniques provide the best results? As you can imagine, I'm...

Y'all: I am a weathering n00b, so pardon the possible stupidity of this question. I've read posts, how-to's, and what-not about applying a base coat to a kit before the main color. Why? I read a lot about the necessity of preserving fine detail, yet applying two coats of paint (or even more) seems t...