Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

My nephew just got a Bambu Lab A1 printer. I know it's a really good printer, but is it suitable for printing models? I know resin has more detail, so I'm not sure if I should bother or what. I have zero experience with 3D printing.

I haven't tried it, but I remember someone saying Coke will strip chrome off.

I seem to recall getting some from Plastruct yeeeeeaaaaars ago. I don't recall if I ever used it. I think I accidentally got it, but I never bent it to make railings like Adam was talking about. I feel like the styrene would crack if you did that, but I don't know.

I wanted to be an engineer so I took mechanical drawing classes from junior high through high school, so that helps. I don't do them that technically, they are basically loose sketches or usually a series of sketches of whatever part I'm working on. I know a lot of people use a program called Sketch...

I've got an idea, but I'll just say it's also a Rebel Hangar. I haven't seen it done and don't want to put it out there before I get to it. Which might be in the next 20 years or so...

I also say Plastruct. Other than having a $20 minimum order they're great. I usually just order a bunch of random stuff to get it up to $20 because I'll use it at some point.

I have a 28 year old Paasche VL airbrush and the glass siphon bottle it came with leaks like crazy while painting. Then you have to disassemble the entire thing to clean it, instead of just running thinner though it and wiping out the inside. Are the newer bottles any better or are the plastic bottl...

Those are really good firsts! I agree once you know you can scratchbuild something it's hard to go back to kits!

I've always gotten everything I couldn't get at a local hobby shop from Plastruct. I can't vouch for whether their prices are the best or not, but I've never had a problem.

Ah, I misunderstood. I've seen some 3D programs that will chop the model apart into bulkhead like layers. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

If you already have a program to do the drawings and print them, I've seen people use that sticker printer paper. The print it on there, stick it to the plastic sheet, then cut it out. Then you either have to sand off the sticker or find a solvent that won't eat the plastic, but will clean the stick...

Sure if you don't mind, I'll take a look.

naoto wrote:Happened to stumble across this: http://gamingunity.com/news.php?id=212

Thanks! That is a big help as far as seeing how someone else went about building it.

Here's the ship if you have no idea what I'm talking about: http://i.imgur.com/MapjBih.png I'm just throwing ideas around on how to build this and the only part that would give me trouble is the main fuselage. I don't have vacuuforming equipment so I would probably have to go with the bulkhead and s...

Yes, thanks! I used it for the cone behind the ball cockpit on my Chiss fighter: Unfinished: http://i.imgur.com/ApUIX7P.jpg
Finished: http://i.imgur.com/mLCL0KC.jpg

I used this building my Chiss fighter years ago: https://www.conelayout.com/

There's some A-10 engine nacelles on there as well. That thing looks like it was built as a "best of the 70s" U.S. aircraft amalgamation.

Yeah that sounds like it might be a size K&S would carry.

I can proudly say that I've mastered the opening of the model box! Seriously I don't think you ever master anything, you just keep improving.

Okay, thanks. I saw the date and thought "no way are these still good!" and all of them except aluminum and another metal color cured okay. Those two were still soft and sticky.

I was going through some of my Model Masters enamel paints today and noticed I have some with price tags from 1992! It seems like it still works okay when I tested it on a scrap. Does anyone know if these paints have an expiration date, or is it just if it doesn't work throw it out?

Okay... looks like English to me.

Joseph Osborn wrote:Grex makes an adapter to fit a Paasche airbrush to a standard 1/8" hose, which is what Iwata uses.

Grex part number AD30

Thanks!

I've looked a bunch of places and emailed a few airbrush sellers, but I can't find an adapter that would let me attach a Paasche airbrush to an Iwata hose. I'm talking about a fitting that would require permanent mounting to a hose. I've seen several that have a nipple that goes on the hose, but tha...

I have an Olfa plastic cutter. There's two similar, same blade type, on these pages:
http://www.olfaproducts.com/SPD/olfa-pc ... 202416.jsp
http://www.olfaproducts.com/SPD/olfa-p- ... 727601.jsp

I'm going to suggest a flexshaft for the Dremel. I'd be scared shivering in a corner if I attempted a scratchbuild without it.

What size rings do you need? Plastruct makes ABS rings that are really handy for all kinds of things.

Anyone know why these things are so expensive? I've never got a set because it seems like there's not that amount of material in the things for the price.

Neither ship looks like they would be too hard to build, I just have too many SW projects to do a non SW ship! I love both games though.

Salt weathering is the most effective I've used - it does get tricky when you have to mask for lots of colors, though. Yes that works very good. Just remember to use the appropriate sized grains of salt for the scale. Pretzel salt weathering would look odd on a 1/72 scale model. I've seen people do...

I may get a couple MIG colors to test them out to see if I'm wowed by them. They're like $5 something a bottle though.