Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

...In the year 2024, what is a good silicone or RTV for making the mold, that is newb-friendly? Thanks Hivemind, Brian I use the silicone rubber sold by TAP Plastics. After I pour the rubber, I poke in with a bit of wire, trying to dislodge any bubbles which may have adhered to the surface of the m...

ScaleCoat Paint Remover will remove the aluminum layer and the clear conductive layer under the aluminum.

To remove it, stick a piece of masking tape on top of it and peel it off.

I wouldn't do it. I had some vinyl wings I grafted to a figure once, and I could not get oils to dry on those wings. I tried all sorts of primers, even Stynylres acrylic primer, to no avail. I finally wiped away the oils using some thinner and went with artist's acrylics with copious amounts of reta...

I'd be a little careful when using alcohol to wipe down a model. Once when I fouled up an airbrushed acrylic paint job, I used alcohol to strip it, and it worked a treat.

The other day, I dug out some 3D-printed HO scale beds I'd bought some time ago for another project. To my surprise, two of them had "ruptured"--blown themselves apart just as if they were subjected to some intolerable internal pressure. There was also a slight amount of black liquid, as t...

mike robel wrote: ↑Sat Oct 15, 2022 6:00 pm I have not seen Ambroid or Tenax in ages.

The makers of Styrene Tack-It II claim that's it's reverse-engineered from Tenax; i.e, the same stuff. Smells about the same.

Wait so does this mean I'm a complete and total n00b for using Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models? http://www.kitkraft.biz/files/images/d_73017.jpg I've been using CA now for about the last 10 years or so for just about everything - gluing and filling mostly - on styrene. But I've been w...

When I needed a circuit to flash 6 LEDs one second ON, one second OFF, I contacted Evan Designs and they built one for me. Cost me about $20.

I've used 0.005" white styrene for diffusers a number of times. I've also tried sanded clear styrene, but the glow isn't as uniform as with white.

Here is a link to a Flickr album with pictures of a tank I used SMDs from Evan Designs to light. For each light, I used the tip of a large drill bit to make a reflector-shaped hole, then set the LEDs at the bottom of the hole. I then filled the "dishes" with clear epoxy. You can see what s...

You could try a transparent blue paint, airbrushed on. I believe GarageKit Colors USA has a transparent blue.

Or you could try oil pastels. Tamiya Weathering Masters offers a blue steel color that might be just the ticket.

Perhaps a mild acid, like white vinegar? Bleach seemed to work really well, until I discovered that it left a white residue which is being very stubborn. The Clorox website suggests using vinegar to get rid of it, but so far after several days of soaking the vinegar hasn't touched it. Whenever I sc...

MillenniumFalsehood wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2020 12:31 pm The varnish has disappeared. What I need to get rid of now is the residue left over from the crappy bleach I soaked the parts in for a week.

Perhaps a mild acid, like white vinegar?

It's not clear to me why anyone would mess around with improvised and less than satisfactory solutions like brake fluid, bleach, or Coke, when the ScaleCoat stuff is reasonably priced, does a better job, and is readily available from trustworthy sources like Walthers.

I always use ScaleCoat paint remover, available from model railroad sources.

Stick with it! I tell my friends that building a model is a gradually escalating series of disasters that you have to overcome, one by one, until finally it's done and you can quit.

Surprisingly, none of them have taken up the hobby

Star Base 8 wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 9:38 am Thank you guys, I think it may take a blend of both suggestions to straighten her out

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CvSfLws44Da2GPBj8

Oy, what a horror! Can you ask the supplier to send you another?

I've had very good results with Createx Wicked Colors (not ordinary Createx, but specifically the Wicked Colors line). I used their pearl yellow for this:

In oils, I use about 1 part Raw Sienna, 1 Part Burnt Sienna, and maybe 5 parts Permalba White. In enamels, think Afrika Corps Yellow, Rust, and White. In acrylics, I've had some success mixing Burnt Orange with White.

I've had good results with Castrol Super Clean (now apparently "Purple Power"), but for the tough stuff I bring out the ScaleCoat Paint Remover.

A lot of the model airplane guys use PET, I understand; never tried it myself.

southwestforests wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2020 6:31 pm This from the model train paint suppliers takes chrome off in less than an afternoon, often in less than 30 minutes.
Is what I used to de-chrome the Pilgrim Observer parts this past summer.

Agree totally. ScaleCoat is da bomb.

Why not just hang it in a warm place and let it air-dry? I usually do that, and while it's hanging there I might use a piece of Kleenex to lift off any big droplets.

Sounds like you might want to look into urethane rubber. I used it for molds once, and it was much stiffer than the usual silicone mold materials.

DaveVan wrote: ↑Fri Sep 06, 2019 10:23 pm Check Plastruct online catalog. Good stuff and staff.

I see that Plastruct offers ABS tubing and end caps, round and elliptical, in the sizes the OP wanted. https://plastruct.com/product-category/ ... nd-tubing/

Get as much of the old paint out as you can. If it's tar, scrape it out. If it's a solid chunk, try chiseling off bits with an old knife blade. The less you have in the jar, the less thinner you have to use. To minimize what you use, start with one jar, wait until it's done its work, then pour into...

Why not just put a little round reflecty jewel-thing in each engine, perhaps tinted with a bit of clear paint? Kylwell posted this link in another thread; these might work: http://www.suessparklers.com/mm5/mercha ... gory_Code=

Couldn't you do this with a hidden switch? The switch would contact the display base, and be held in the depressed position by the weight of the gun; when you picked up the blaster the switch would be released and turn on the lights. I think you could do it with a microswitch or perhaps one of these...