Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Plastruct solvent glue in the Orange bottle will work with ABS. Great stuff and available most shops/online.

You are looking at a big project!! Scribing the hood with a X-11 blade drawn from the backside works but go slow.....and you will have some oops to fill when done. Front suspension will be fun and complex! Engine....a V-16 would be fitting but something, as stated, more steam punk might be cool. Kee...

Solv-a-set user for 45 years.....never thought of using it in a air brush......but if it works for you,,,,GREAT!
While it is one of the hottest decal solvents I do not have any issues with it. I have been a decal manufacture for 35 years now and when used correctly is great stuff.

R2 had a live Youtube thing that went south and had no sound for the most part. But I saw they have a TIE Bomber coming......My most wanted.

Maybe just certificate is out of date......happened on a model car site I visit last month.....

I tried to foil a BTTF Delorean And at first it looked good. But after a year it developed small air bubbles in the foil. Not sure what I did.....but on a surface like that of the Razor.....I'd read up on application!

Seems good here.....as a retired Sr Systems Analyst....thanks for the hard work!

Good luck.....I use my 1000 and 5000 as little as I must. I went to a white ink laser but still like the ALPS for the metallic inks.
I used thousands of sheets of BEL paper and never had issues. Spent $100's finding a new paper.

The Thermal print head may be failing. I have had ALPS printers from day one. At one time I had a catalog of 200 decals all coming off my ALPS.....laying many inks over each other. When a print head would start to fail multi layers would fail.
Not sure about yours....but a possible cause.

Sunnyscopa Waterslide Decal Paper for LASER Printer - CLEAR, US LETTER SIZE 8.5"X11", 10 SHEETS,

It worked OK but I thought it was to thick and glossy for my work.

That question is kinda like 'how much to cut down a tree??' Not being a PIA but things changed a few years ago. A woman was able to apply and get a patent on decal paper. Decals have been around since the 1800's but she somehow got it. She then shutdown every supplier in the USA unless they paid up....

Tamiya clear will work. 2 to 3 very light coats. Good luck.

91-92% will work on some types lacquer (synthetic) but trial and error.

I have found the cheaper the bleach the better.......seems more harsh!!! Dollar store stuff!

That clear/yellow undercoat is a lacquer coating and VERY labor intensive to remove....if you can. Depends on the era/age of the chrome parts.....some undercoat I never get off.......the model car guys (me) fight this all the time! Good luck.

I bought a bottle of the 'new' stuff. Same bottle, looks the same, smells just like the stuff I have used for 40 years.......I'll try it ASAP and let you know what I think. I hope it works as I am down to a 1/4 bottle of the 'good' stuff.

Kylwell, Thanks for looking this up. Your saying Pledge Floor Gloss: Is not the same as the Future we knew and loved and that our cherished acrylic floor covering is gone for good. So FineScale is wrong about this? I'm sure the Alclad product is nice, but to me one of the best things about Future i...

AZTEK and Pactra too.......memo came out late last year. I am almost all Tamiya other than 'vintage' Testors on hand.....some with 15 cent caps!
RPM has little interest in hobby sales.

YEP!!!

Home made rub on transfer have some benefits.....but for me too many negative. A logo with just 5 colors becomes a nightmare to make. You need a heat laminatior too. Single color logo or words work well. and you can rub them on clear decal paper so they work like a waterslide and can be moved around...

Inkjet ink is made to dye white paper and are very opaque. The ink has little to no substance. They also tend to be a bit fuzzy on the edges when printed on inkjet decal paper. GOOD laser ink has a small amount of metal in it and is not a dye but rather has some material substance to it. A laser app...

Inkjet materials do not affect my biz...IMHO they are of a lesser quality for commercial use.
Google BEL DECAL PAPER and it should bring up all the info you may want. BEL was my supplier for 25+ years.

How is that even possible?? What a crazy world we live in..... :? If I didn't have a life I'd spend the time needed to challenge it........but life is to short. It's one of those things that has fallen between the cracks and the legal system is being abused by someone with enough cash to get things...

I've been in the decal biz since the early 1980's and made them for myself before that. 1. Any vector program is good. I use CorelDraw X5(15) Corel is not cheap...either is AI. There are free programs out there.....but never used them so can't recommend. 2. The BIG issue today. There is a legal figh...

Cheap DOT 1 brake fluid.....no name brands from Dollar General....works well on hard to remove paint....messy.....

Tamiya has a spray can transparent pearl that is used over any color. It's a very scale look.

Hope the Flexi works well for you.
The P-38 has tempted me....My father in law was the master mechanic for a Squad in Europe WWII

Glorfindel wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:10 am Flex -I-File.....think I'm going to give that a whirl.
Thanks boys

If you have a Hobby Lobby they carry it....use the 40% coupon.....good deal!!!!!

Ambroid & Tenax both shut down years ago. MicroMark sells "SameStuff" which is purportedly a replacement for Ambroid. I've found Flex-i-file's Plast-i-weld a suitable replacement for Tenax. Flex-i-file bottle here too!!!! I was a Pro-Weld only guy....bought up what I could as soon as ...

Went and bought a kit by Salvonos model last week and Monday put the chrome tree into a container of bleach for a couple of days and when I took it out very little chrome was gone and had turned into a green powdery substance and the bare spots of plastic had started to turn black. Is this normal w...