Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Here, but not participating much...

I wrote this a _long_ time ago, but it covers the very basics of single LEDs... http://www.antsnest.net/Garage/LEDs.php

Those are generally referred to as "COB" LEDs (chip-on-board). Also have a look for LED filaments - those are the things you get inside decorative light bulbs these days. They can be either 1-2" strips, or 6-12" of flexible "string". Random examples from random ebay sel...

One small issue here - 20ma is 0.02A, not 0.2A....

Old style Dymo tape is a good self adhesive 'edge' to scribe against and will follow curves to some extent.

geck wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 4:01 am ... Acrylics just don't stick well to anything but wood.

And me. And the inside of my airbrush

Already covered

https://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vi ... p?t=129235

To be fair, this is not a new technology at all - induction has been known about for almost as long as electricity. All these are are the combination of an inductive power source glued to a LED. But that's also it's biggest weakness - the size of the pick-up coils and the distance and alignment betw...

Ideally they would have some sort of sleeving (flexible or heat-shrink) on them when assembled to prevent exactly this issue. I don't know of the parts you are talking about, but you may be able to use a blob of hot glue over the joint to relieve the strain.

There's a possible problem with this - many "cheap" battery operated LED products rely on the properties of the battery to reduce the component count and cost of the product - specifically, they can rely on the battery being unable to supply enough current to damage the LEDs due to it's in...

Great to see another Frankendrill!!
And I really like the finger trigger upgrade!

I've been meaning to 3D print a small enclosure for mine, but I've not used it in ages so the need has fallen down the list of priorities...

5 min clear epoxy works really well

Did you get rid of the "dome" on the top of the LED? This is essentially a lens that spreads out the light from the LED die and makes it appear brighter than a smaller point source.

I could possibly provide you with a very small bespoke solution pre-programmed to your needs. I have done a lot of custom lighting modules for kits over the years. Coincidentally I have also just got the EVA Pod and am currently working on a complete solution, screens and internal lighting that woul...

Mr. Engineer wrote: ↑Fri Sep 20, 2019 8:20 pm Mr. Antsnest on the other hand (the brilliant guy who first gave you the roving Cyclon Eye for the Moebius 1/32 Advance Cylon raider)

Blush Thanks!
Ant

Conductive paint has been around for decades.

It still sucks.

What usually happens with many low cost mass produced items such as these battery operated strings of LEDs is they rely on side effects & physical properties of components within the circuit to allow the elimination of what would otherwise be required components for a high quality solution. Typi...

I think that's because they were wired in parallel, but you have now wired them in series. This places different voltage/current demands on the circuit.

It's an interesting looking concept - basically built around every single LED being an addressable one so that the "design" of the lighting can be developed separately from the physical implementation. Whilst this greatly simplifies some aspects, it vastly complicates others, and you'd nee...

General rule of thumb: any one part, solvent based putty will shrink far more than 2-part epoxy types.
But as far as working with styrene, a solvent based putty will bond far better to the plastic.

I expect he's talking about flourecent paints. These do not emit light themselves but will glow brightly in the presence of UV.

+1 for epoxy, or you can even use PVA if you don't need a really strong bond and have time for it to set.

Yup, absolutely no reason a trimpot can't be used to reduce the brightness.

To be safe, use it in series with the resistor calculated to give your maximum allowed current through the LED - that way you will never accidentally wind it down too far and let too much current flow.

To make less bright, just reduce the current by increasing the resistance. Try doubling it to star with...

Easiest way is with a LED tester https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Handy-2-150mA-LED-Test-Box-Tester-For-Light-emitting-Diode-Lamp/222564385314?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50926%26meid%3D8fad0166efda467e82a5e90c3c3c40c3%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm...

Hi Scott

I absolutely LOVE Badger Stynylrez Primers! I've pretty much given up on rattlecan primers on everything now.

Just have a google for reviews!

Airbrushable, and comes in quite a range of colours now.

Ant

The only way you will do it through plastic is via induction.

Yup, absolutely no reason why you can't do that. Assuiming your lighting circuit currently has a single connector with your + and - contacts, then you can just connect more in parallel, linking each + and each - together. Plugging the power into any connector will then work.

That would be some kind of inductive loop - same way that wireless chargers work on phones or toothbrushes. The magnets probably just held the loop in place on the model. You basically feed an AC signal into a coil of wire, which generates a moving magnetic field. If you place another coil of wire n...

2-part 5 minute clear epoxy works well.