Ever had gap filling cyo glue take TEN hours to cure....?

[Reichardt, KoG]

Howdy, All; Have had some medium and thick gap filling glue problems of late.

I'm using 'Extreme Power' brand (from Hobby Lobby- I think they're the equivalent of ""Bob Smith brand"" which is from Hobby ToWn)

I've laid down a bead of thick (the yaller bottle, yah?) glue, mebbe 1/4" thick X 3"long, and it's taking f o r e v e r to cure.
(the medium glue is acting the same way).

It's been TEN hours and counting....??! The bond kinda flexes, not what I want to sand, yet...(it's kinda like how old Testor's orange could be, with a bad, high solvent content tube).

I washed the kit parts, the plastic is nothing exotic, I sanded the surfaces slightly to get more 'tooth'....SheeeSH!

ONliest thing I can figger is we got 45% humidity in my country part of Texas City, right now, and there's not enough water to activate the ?ester?

I could use 'zip kicker' cyano activator, but kinda hate to go that far for a teeny little joint. (glad I learnt to glue small areas at a time, over the years, or this would be worser!)

OH, and please, NO solvent glue recomendations...I got some of that, but now prefer cyano glue due to smell/headache hassles, Thanks! (also, I'm just weirded out by this odd non-reaction)

Any Ideas, Out There, Ya'll?

TIA

[Johnnycrash]

1/4" x 3" is a "little" joint?? What the hell ya buildin' there boy??

That is a HUGE joint. OK, it's a small joint, but a HUGE amount of glue. Or is is a little bit of glue on parts that mate on a surface that is 1/4" x 3"??

Break out the kicker. I use that even on the tiniest of joints. It's all about gettin'r done.

[Rogviler]

One thing you might try, if you hate fumes like me, is some water mixed with baking soda in a spray bottle. It doesn't immediately cure it like a kicker, but I've had good success with it cutting down cure times considerably while not building up the seam like straight baking soda. I just can't do kicker anymore myself, it's like instant nausea and headache unless it's outside in a good breeze.

-Rog

[Reichardt, KoG]

Hm, thought I'd been clearer; the seam is only 1/4 inch wide, X mebbe 3 inches long, by....1/10 inch deep, I guess.
(Forgive me Interlocutor for I have Seined; it's on a '52 Chevy kit from Lindbergh, ancient example of styrene arts)

And, I forgot to mention, I'd tried the water trick, and it made the stuff gooey, kinda.

It's cured, sorta, (I'll live, it's just weird, ya know?), and I've painted a primer coat, and sanded the seam. Instead of crystallizing? like the cyano usually does it's rough, like green putty.

I got some new, smaller bottles of each, and we'll see if it's just a bad batch.

Hope it don't happen to y-o-u...

[Kylwell]

Thick CAs typically will form a cured shell which slows the resulting cure farther in. The thicker the CA and the heavier the application the longer it takes to cure.

Which is why people will often times add baking soda to the joint to speed transfer of the catalyst.

I've had super thick levels take days to cure. The next time I needed that much CA I did it in thinner layers.

[Reichardt, KoG]

Yessir, thank you for the ideas.

I went to my club's Wise Old Owl (an Active Modeler older than ME

He'd had similar problems with the white Lindbergh plastic; it's apparently oilier(?) than it looks. Even washed, it did feel talc-like on the finger...Thanks again.

Oh, and the WOO also told me that it takes threee (3) licks to get to the center of a Too***e *oll **p....