The best glue?

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
belkin321
Posts: 104
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:26 am
Location: Arizona

The best glue?

Post by belkin321 »

What is the best glue to use on models, so a few years from now the model is not falling apart? Thanks
User avatar
dizzyfugu
Posts: 661
Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:14 am
Location: Right behind you!
Contact:

Post by dizzyfugu »

Which material? Everything is relative... and you will certainly receive a dozen of replies! :P
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
http://www.flickr.com/dizzyfugu
belkin321
Posts: 104
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:26 am
Location: Arizona

Best glue

Post by belkin321 »

Plastic models...star trek plastic models actually.
User avatar
Rogviler
Posts: 4379
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:04 pm
Location: Colorado

Post by Rogviler »

Anything that will fuse the two pieces together, making them one. I'm sure everyone has their preference, but I like Testors liquid cement.

Plain adhesive type glues definitely have their place, but I like the bulk of a model to be as strong as possible.

-Rog
TREKKRIFFIC
Posts: 3204
Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
Contact:

Post by TREKKRIFFIC »

For styrene plastic kits, Testors brand plastic cement works great to fuse the plastic. Get the red tube though rather than the blue if you have a choice. You can also get it as a thinned liquid in a bottle for brushing along joints.

For clear parts not undergoing any stress I like canopy glue which is basically thinned white glue. Otherwise I use Testors cement, being careful not to use too much so as not to get glue smudges on the visible areas of the clear part.

CA (or Superglue) is great for joining dissimilar materials, like brass or metal to plastic, but it doesn't fuse the parts together so won't take a lot of flexing. It also dries fast especially if you use it in tandem with an accelerant. CA also gives off fumes which will fog clear parts so use it with caution on windows. Some modellers will paint clear parts with an acrylic clearcoat like Future acrylic floor finish (although I think it's sold now as Pledge with Future Shine or somethng like that). The acrylic coat acts as a barrier layer to protect the clear plastic from fogging.
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29650
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Tenax 7R or Ambroid ProWeld. Tamiya Extra Thin is also damned nice. Testor's tube glue takes to long and the fumes give me splitting headaches.
Abolish Alliteration
Saturn
Posts: 6716
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 9:06 pm
Location: Oklahoma City, OK

Post by Saturn »

Kylwell wrote: Testor's tube glue takes to long and the fumes give me splitting headaches.
Not to mention those bonds created with Toluene-based tube glue can become brittle with age. I still have the Ent-D I built in 1988, and none of those original tube-cemented joints held in the first ten years.

Using liquid cements (Testors, Tenax, Ambroid) does have a learning curve, but it's far better for build longevity. (unless you're flying your models around the room with swooshing and pew pew sounds)
"Of all the chili that I've eaten in my travels, this has the most.......Cumin."
Post Reply