Basics. Weathering. Washes

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri Oct 07, 2005 12:28 pm

nicholjm wrote:I've noticed that alot of people will almost completely assemble a model and then paint it with their airbrush. This is opposite of the way I usually did it. I painted either individual parts or subassemblies as I go, and by the time I assembled the whole thing, it's probably 90% painted. I did this because I didn't have an airbrush, and couldn't get up close with a spray bomb can. Now that I have an airbrush (which I haven't really gotten to try yet), is the former method the way to go? It seems like getting paint in every nook and cranny will still be difficult, even with the airbrush. Should I still paint in subassemblies, as needed, to get even coverage?

It depends on where your seams are going to lie. If your subassemblies' seams are where the "real" panel lines are, and they're in scale, then you're fine. However, if painting the subassemblies leaves seams visible that aren't supposed to be there, then, it's a no-go.

For example, I painted my Valkyries in subassemblies. Why? Because the seams visible afterwards were supposed to be there - they were around joints and stuff. On the other tentacle, with an X-Wing, that's probably not going to be an option because the wings sit in the middle of the fuselage, and there arent really supposed to be any big gaps around the other components.

Of course, I obsess over seams. Your mileage may vary.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

REL · Post by **REL** » Sat Nov 12, 2005 7:14 pm

Nothing

nicholjm · Post by **nicholjm** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:57 pm

I can only afford maybe 3-5 tubes of oil paint for using for washes. What are some good colors to get? I ask because I'm kinda color-blind, and have trouble picking out colors. I build sci-fi models (Star Wars & Star Trek) and armor. I bought one tube of Raw Umber last night. I need colors to represent basic dirt and grime. I've also read about people using Vandyke Brown and Black.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 1:02 pm

You'll want a black, a dark brown, and a gray. IIRC hat's the best combo.

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:33 pm

Payne's Grey is your friend. You'll rarely use pure black, Payne's is a "toned" color - a bluish/black much more appropriate in the real world than pure stark black.

White is needed to tone any other color lighter.

Get the smallest tubes of decent quality stuff you can. Student grade is to be avoided - the particle size is much too large.

I bought a small set of about 8 colors a few years ago, and while I don't frequently use all the colors - I find drybrushing minis with oils is so much more subtle and realistic than any other method.

nicholjm · Post by **nicholjm** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 4:56 pm

Being semi-color blind, what color of oil wash would yall suggest for my AT-AT? It's painted a light gray (like any AT-AT you've ever seen). I don't know if a dark grey or a dirt color would look best.

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 10:39 pm

I'd use more dirty brown toward the bottom, and gray as you move up. Payne's Gray will be best. Don't forget streaks from vents and panel intersections. Think about how rain would cascade down that beast....

In other words, paint it like an armor modeler.

protorob · Post by **protorob** » Thu May 11, 2006 4:12 pm

Hello

I saw a couple of posts about using eye shadow for some weathering. I am currently working on one of the 31 inch Nautilus subs and have already airbrushed the rusting and wanted to do alittle drainage darking around the exhaust vents. The eye shadow sounded pretty good because I doubt my skill at this point to do the drainage lines from airbrush.
My biggest question is, if the eye shadow weathering turns out ok can I then seal it when complete with something that would not cause the eye shadow to run?

Thanks

Rob...

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:24 pm

acrylic finishes should not cause the eyeshadow to run.

Another option is to use oil paint and drag a bit of the pigment with a paint-thinner-dampened paintbrush. I've been using ink in Future for a lot of these streaky black drips.

mech · Post by **mech** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:49 pm

I just wanted to say thanks. This thread is exactly what I was looking for. I'm about to finish the gloss coat on my TOS E and my D7 and wasn't sure how to accomplish the weathering effect. I want it to be subtle so I'll practive on a spare something or other tonight.
Thanks again for sharing your expertise.

j

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:41 pm

I like using gell pens and a cotton swab on a flat finish. Not exacly a wash but works great for weathering. Seal with gloss lacquer when done before applying decals.

mech · Post by **mech** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:57 pm

TREKKRIFFIC wrote:I like using gell pens and a cotton swab on a flat finish. Not exacly a wash but works great for weathering. Seal with gloss lacquer when done before applying decals.

How?
Do you apply the gel directly to the swap and then set about the work or the other way around?

j

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:44 pm

jsnmech18 wrote:
TREKKRIFFIC wrote:I like using gell pens and a cotton swab on a flat finish. Not exacly a wash but works great for weathering. Seal with gloss lacquer when done before applying decals.
How?
Do you apply the gel directly to the swap and then set about the work or the other way around?

j

I use a few techniques but mostly I just get the ink flowing on a piece of paper (or the end of my finger) and then just lightly scribble on the model surface. This works well along seam and panel lines. Don't use too much pressure though or you might scar the surface. I then moisten the tip of a microbrush and rub it over the ink unitl it looks right. I've also used the tip of my finger to blend ink over larger areas. Cotton swabs work well too but the microbrush is the best for getting into small nooks and crannies. Since it's water based you can easily wipe the ink away if you make a mistake. Make sure to spray on a coat of lacquer when finished or the ink might come off on your hand.

mech · Post by **mech** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 4:35 am

Cool. I'll try that.
Thanks

j

sorleygoldie · Post by **sorleygoldie** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:52 am

I bought some Revell Star wars kits and did not fancy doing a repaint so mixed a wee drop of acrylic paint with Future and covered the model - the good thing is it dries quickly and you can keep building up coats until you are happy. Now let the fun begin - by using the rough side of a kitchen scourer I "scrubbed" the kit in the direction of travel - this matted the surface and the coating wore of in some areas. The result is a nicely weathered effect. the scourer can also be used to apply paint chips - get some grey paint on a board and dip the rough side of the scourer in - now gently dab the kit - if you are careful you will get "chipped"paint, repeat with silver if you want.

nicholjm · Post by **nicholjm** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:16 pm

What do yall use to wipe off your excess wash? I've used Q-tips so far, but I don't really like how they fray and leave little tiny hairs all over the model. I do like how you can get down in tight places with them.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:36 pm

Microbrushes?

nicholjm · Post by **nicholjm** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 3:47 pm

I read that they are non-absorbent. Wouldn't they just smear the wash around, not lift it off? Also at $9.75 for 100, it could get expensive. I go thru maybe 30 or 40 per model.

I read on this website about Q-tips from Japan, that don't fray as easily but are hard to find over here. Check out this website anyways, this guy probably makes the best models ever. Period.

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/Tiger ... _frame.htm

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:55 am

Gun cleaning swabs.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:57 am

Or medical swabs. They tend to be tighter bound.

nicholjm · Post by **nicholjm** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:35 am

kylwell wrote:Or medical swabs. They tend to be tighter bound.

Where do you get those, other than swiping them out of the ER on your next visit to get a #11 blade pulled out of your eye (just kidding)?

It's funny I asked this question about what to wipe off a wash with, and then that day I got my newest FSM. Right there in the Tips section, someone had written in about the same subject and suggested gun cleaning swabs, as I see someone else has done here. I tried those yesterday, and they work much better! They still leave a tiny bit of fuzz, but not gobs of it like before.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:25 am

Hey cool! foam swabs!

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:42 am

Hey cool! foam swabs!

Well, they are practically in my backyard!!

I'm going to have to give them a call.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 1:01 am

Do that. Let us know how they work.

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:10 pm

i was wondering if anyone has a good technique for making rush stains on a model.
i was inspired by a thread to make my own moisture vaporator and although it may not be the best, i would like to add some weathering and one thing i want is rust streaks and i don't know how to make them.

any ideas?

thanks

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:34 pm

Depends on the scale.

Pastels or Tamiya Weathering Sets are nice for small to large rust streaks. Just a little smear at the start of the rust spot and gently smear it down. Work in various oranges, reds, and yellows to give depth of color.

With some pratice Rust-All can also be used but since it's a liquid control is a little more problematic.

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 4:50 pm

thanks!

ill havet to try it and see how it comes out!

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 6:32 pm

so here's the problem I'm having now.
i cant get the right shape. i did the small pile of dust and then smearing it down but all i get is a blob of rust not the streaking that i was thinking of.
what am i doing wrong?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:28 pm

Pastels work better on matte or flat paints (or clear coats).

Uhm, dang trying to find a quickie visual tutorial but no go.

Let me see what I can do.

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 8:33 pm

k
thanks

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Basics. Weathering. Washes

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