Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Alclad is the best but very expensive. the chrome is perfect when you need a very bright surface. also most shades can be mixed so an infinite number of tones can be created.
When I use chrome the surface is painted with gloss black and then sanded and polished it a pefect gloss

I just finished spraying two 144 Dragon X-15's with the small Testors bottles. The result is the same as with Model Master. I believe that the paint is almost identical to the Model Master. The main advantage is that the bottles are smaller so less has to be bought for odd colors. Thinning is almost...

the ipms stockholm site is the definitive source for all color equivalents. it is comprehensive and updated all the time

I use them all the time. They are completely compatible with Model Master enamels and just a bit thicker. Often I need only a bit of a color and the old little bottles are perfect. Also since they are carried at Michaels at 40% off they are cheaper than model master. When it comes to basic colors li...

I bought mine in 1982 and it is still perfect! It is nosier than modern compressors but it will last a lifetime. It has 0 maintnece and over the years you just need to dust occassionally. I thnk the only thing I did was clip an inch off an air hase when it frayed about 10 years ago. I could will it ...

Humbrol and testors are not perfectly compatible. Apparently the primer was particlly dissolved and the new paint created a gummy mixture. Often over time it will dry to be ok so be patient

another solution is polishing compound like Novus #2. I have been able to eliminate a lot of overspray with it. Be careful and don't polish too much to remove the base paint

you may be getting chemical interactions that are not typical. The more different materials that are used the more likely things will go wrong. I suggest waiting another week and then lightly misting another layer of Dullcoat to seal it.

I agree that Alclad provides a great durable finish. As Kywell points out, you can go through a lot of bottles of it so spray lightly. Due to the amount of paint used Alclad can become very expensive for a large model

Usually I add a few drops of thinner when I finish painting. this replaces the amount that evaporates when the bottle is open. I also add thinner as soon as I notice the paint is getting thicker in the bottle. Adding thinner really saves money since the bottles don't dry out

By far the best lighting kits come from Just an Illusion. They are the easiest to use and a great value. the electroluminescent panels are incredible. The results on the moon bus were fabulous.

It is very interesting about the consensus for Iwata. I started with an HP-BC over twenty years ago and all I had to replace was a little gasket in the air valve for a few dollars. The nozzle and needle are still perfect due to the steel precision construction

Lunar surfaces are a lot of fun. I used model railroad gravel and sand. there are several sizes so I use a little of each. If you are showing a landing, there would be few boulders so keep everything in scale. The fun part is using an airbrush and starting with one shade of gray, going through many ...

Thanks for the wonderful answer.

I have trying to find out if there is a difference amongest the three. Is one stronger than the rest and is there a difference in chemical composition.
Thanks

I prefer the Iwata and you can often find it discounted on the net. Iwata's have high precision and can last for most of your modeling career. The new triple handle as others mentioned is a great accessory

Instead of printing decals yourself, an excellent service for printing them is http://www.danmodeltruckworld.com/shop/
He provides a wonderful service and is very reasonable in price.

microCrystalclear will dry clearer and is less likely to fog. It also can be removed with water so it won't mar your finish

Very much appraciated

I can't prasie Alclad Chrome high enough

Dear kev, Acrylic rod is quite strong. I used 1/4" inch rod to support a helicopter in my Apollo recovery diorama. It is easy to bend the rod once heated in the oven for a few minutes. I bend the rod over a piece of thin plastic sheet I had cut out with the aid of a French curve. the advice in ...

I am loking for a source to make custom decals. I have the artwork so I just need someone to turn them into decals. Only two or three copies are needed so Microscale is inappropriate. I also want to avoid the trials and tribulations of trying on a color copier myself.
Thanks

Anything is possible. It could be the unique combination of paints and adherence issues combined with an aggressive thinner. Hand brshing future sometimes results in hairline cracks through which the thinner can wreck havoc.

All the model master colors mix very well together. you can mix it by eye or drop by drop. I gnerally mix a batch in a Badger Airbrush jar and keep the entire amount until I finish the project.

I use stainless steel or piano wire to mount my models. the stainless steel will support a higher weight than brass rod and does not need polishing

Revell Germany made several sets of models that are suspnded in air by powerful magnets. A large magnet is in the base and another in the small model. It would be easy to use the magnets in other samm models as well. The effect was very convincing.

I have used the MicroScale blue liquid mask many times. It works well and has not interacted with any of the paints or plastics that I have used.
the masking liquid also can diluted with oridinary water should it become too thick.