Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

pictures or it didn't happen

depending on what you actually need, walmart garage sale signs are fair quality and cheap. It's not as soft as evergreen sheet plastic though.

I 'grew-up' with games workshop's school of acrylic washes in the 80s and found that there is a difference. Oil washes give a warmer finish that accentuates surface texture while acryl washes tend to pool in low areas to shade them with more contrast. For instance, doing a human figure, I like to gi...

Makes me think of Poly-S Grimey Black.

rubbing alcahol... GOOF OFF... simple green.

hmm.. yes.. i think that's my thing too.

I've had the same issue.. you can crease it with your fingernail. Half the time, it's because I model in my garage and it's cold, so it needs a few days to cure completely.. but I've also seen a couple cases where it just plane didn't cure after a week and that mist be a bad guess on the 50/50 mix. ...

Nice Thing about Mr. Surfacer is that it doesn't fill/cover details while it doesn't smooth-over scratches. I use it as well as Aves for big fills and Squadron for small fills.

Personally, for seam filling, I prefer Squadron Green putty. The solvent makes the green putty bind much better and it also cures rock hard.
Here's an example of using both together, from my WILD WOOZLE fighter
http://home.comcast.net/~thewoozle/models/f309_05.jpg

I've found that if you don't get a good 50/50 mix, it won't cure completely. I've never checked it in less time then the next day.

I've been using Testors decal paper, printed from WORD or PAINT, with my inkjet and I'm starting to lose patience, anybody actually like it?

I'm getting ready to print decals for my space-fighter and it just occured to me that I didn't know... anybody have experiences with using testers Inkjet decal paper and vinigar-esque setting solutions? I plan to put the decals down on a surface of future Model polish.

By the way, here's the Archer's page for eyes and tattoos:
http://www.archertransfers.com/catFig.html

Other then the possibility of chemical contamination (from the pait itself, I suppose), the only thing that could cause yellowing would be sunlight over time, though that's a very short period of time.

I spent $1.99 at Goodwill for a desk-fan and used that.

Have you considered buying a cheap 1/72nd plane with similar landing gear wells? I did a quick google search and was suprised that nothing jumped out at me. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:MiG-29_Fulcrum_B.jpg http://www.pantonov.com/index.htm?http%3A//www.pantonov.com/gallery/graf-ignatievo-50/P...

I've been keeping my tamaya and Model master acrylic bottles upside down, with no problem beyond needing a good shaking. I'm thinking about putting them on their sides, instead, in a 'spice rack'. Any thoughts on that method of storage?

I was shopping with the same criteria a couple years ago and my Badger-155 is PERFECT. It's dual action, which means that you press down for the air flow and pull back for the amount of paint. I set the needle so that when I press down, it makes a pencil-thin line and for more, I pull back. I can't ...

What an odd zombie.

I have yet to have much real success thinning Aves, but I've found that if I make a fairly small ball of aves and roll it out, then work it with warm water with just a drop of dish soap, it can press into the space in question is quiet soft and pliable, then just wipe the watered excess away. It's a...

yabbut, that's in a soft material like resin or putty.. what about a nice painted wood grain. The easiest effect I've seen is to get a brown pen and draw the grain on, then a thin oil or other wash over it to color the wood and soften the pen marks. You could do this with a black pen for knot-holes ...

You want Greebles? The other day, Goodwill yielded a complete Star Wars Walker kit (in the Empire Strikes Back box, no less), for two bucks. Alas, no instructions, but that's okay

Hmm. Smoke over chrome might be an idea for American panels.

My rule of thumb, is usully, the number of parts in a kit. i also scrounge half-build model kits at goodwill for a buck. A lot of us here are also waiting for the new starwars Droid Tank to drop in price (it's a dorky subject) for kitbashing fodder.

Would an Amonia Bath clean it all off, to start over?

heh.. s'ry.. just giving ya a hard time. I can never brush a canopy either, though i'm trying to get a tinted Future technique to work.. but all i'm really gettihng good at is amonia baths to clean it off.

and this relates to not hand-brushing.. how? are you airbrushing instead?

Oddly enough, as an example of what I said above.. I'm trying to make half a dozen nice white missiles, but by the third coat of paint, they where going just plain wrong. I gave them a quick amonia scrub and the Future came right off, leaving the bare plastic again.

I've gotten in the habit of putting a couple coats of Future on, before painting. Besides making a good basecoat (on or under primer), if the painting goes all to poop, a simple amonia wipe takes it all off really easily.