Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I agree with the above. I have mixed food coloring with future but you have to be patient and use multiple very light coats and build up to the translucency that you want. Haven't tried the inks but it sounds like a great idea.

Here's how I rigged mine. I kind of prefer a pistol grip arrangement and it seems I can work with it better. I put some quick connect fittings on it so it can be easily removed.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc12 ... CS/001.jpg

Another resource might be to check at taxidermy supply shops. They have an excellent variety of paints and clear coats. Just a thought....

Purple power or superclean is good too! Just wear the proper PPE. It won't burn you but it will suck the moisture right out of your hands and dry them out if it gets on them.

I use an Iwata HP-CS wonderful brush, easy to clean too!

Rattlecans also are very hard to work with when aztecing. The main problem is that you cannot regulate the amount of paint going down. Airbrushes (double action) allow the paint to be applied in a controlled fashion, spray cans do not afford you this option I'm afraid. Try some of the solutions sugg...

I too bought the Iwata HP-CS. It is my first brush and I wanted a double action to learn on and have more control. It breaks down easy for cleaning and performs great. I am very happy with it. I have sprayed acrylics and laquers with no problems at all. You will be very happy with that choice!

Welcome Alan! You are coming back in to the hobby at a good time. There are a lot of kits out there and even better ones planned by model companies in the near future. May I recommend the starshipmodeler store here on this website. Their service and delivery is super fast! John and Linda are good fo...

photoguy wrote:NO! Most of your hobby F.O. is plastic, solvent cement melts it, CA makes it brittle and crack off easily, and hot melt glue isn't good either. Use good ol' white glue.

have fun!

I agree. I tried CA and the fibers broke off just inside the hull. Most folks use either elmers white glue or epoxy.

Try either of these two companies:
Smooth On or TAP Plastics
Both sites have tutorials on brush on molds with plaster mother molds as you described. I am going to do the same thing and buy smooth on's product called "Dragonskin".

DasPhule wrote:LOL! See the flat coat thread, I JUST posted about that very color! LOL!

Erin
<*>

Thats crazy! LOL! Hey someone also recommended vallejo for drybrushing in fact, this link to the product:

http://www.coloradominiatures.com/in...ROD&ProdID=607

Opinions?

Thanks guys. Glad to know others have seen this before! This was the first time I had bought the stuff and was curious if this was the norm. After I stirred it in the bottle, no joke, I literally took it out of the jar on the toothpick, put it in the color cup of my AB, added future and it mixed and...

I attempted my first try at drybrushing the other day using a Tamiya Titanium Silver straight from the bottle. I found that the paint dried very quickly and was hard for me to get the hang of it. Should I have added a retarder or thinned it first?

For the first time I bought Tamiya flat base the other day to mix with future to dullcoat a model. I was shocked when I opened the jar in that this stuff was thicker than elmers glue! I stirred it with a toothpick before mixing with the future and it sprayed ok. I was just shocked over the viscosity...

I am curious if anyone has built their own tools to help perform specific modeling tasks. I know I have built cutting jigs and alignment tools / templates. I want to open this up to any and all contraptions related to helping you accomplish difficult tasks. I have seen home made lathes and other ite...

Thanks for the links but they all appear to be of the "cylon eye" type. Are there any that will drive in a circle pattern aka TOS Enterprise nacelles?

Here is a raider I just finished with Alclad Duraluminum and magnesium on the center part. Pale burnt metal on the exhaust nozzles. The NMF is not for everyone, just wanted to do up a raider like this. Stainless steel would have been a good color too. http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc128/modeler...

I have only sprayed it through an airbrush but I wonder how it might dry brush?

It seems that I have read on various model sites that the formulations of these paints are very different and I have always only mixed like with like brands of paint to be safe. I know they can be painted over or under each other as separate coats but have never tried / dared to mix them because of ...

I tried the watercolor wash and wasn't too impressed. It didn't flow like I thought it would and yes I used cascade surfectant(sp?). I had coated my K'Tinga with a couple of coats of future. Maybe I got the recipe wrong. Anyway some advice needed here. If I decided to remove this wash, is it ok to u...

Hi John I recently painted my cylon raider with metallizers. They are pretty nice. I used white primer so that I could preshade the panels. I later masked out different panels to paint different shades of grey. I let that metallizer coat dry for a day though before I did any masking (using blue pain...

Don't know what kind of paint you are using but Super Clean or Purple Power is available at walmart in gallon containers for less than 10 bucks. Try soaking them in it for 24 hours.
If its really stubborn try lacquer thinner but protect yourself from the fumes (respirator)

I buffed the exhaust cone on my updated Cosmo Zero: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v161/Z0mBe/Cosmo%20Zero/?action=view&current=2706348853_0911f6539a.jpg I used a nail buffing kit from Wal-Mart. I used it in accordance with the directions. The only difference was I used it wet. I buffed the ...

Thanks for the tip folks. I had never heard of using a coat of future over the masking to seal the edges. I have used the other methods I listed above, but never this! I will give it a shot if I ever have these problems for sure!

What paint method are you using? Brush, airbrush, spray bomb? What type of tape are you using? Spray bomb- use light misting coats till you build up the color you want. Air Brush- mix paint a little thicker than you normally would. I use blue painter's tape and have no problems. I used it to mask of...

Kitty Thanks for the info on the arduino boards. I have often wondered why a system could not be designed to provide navigation lights, tos nacelle effect ,strobes and interior lighting without having to buy 3 boards to do it. Seems like this product could be the answer. How bad is the learning curv...

Being a noob to airbrushing is quite intimidating but thanks to the advice I have read here I am now on my way. I bought an Iwata HP CS and have been trying it out. Today was the first time I ever sprayed a model. I used MM Acryl Light Ghost Grey and mixed it with MM Acryl airbrush thinner 60% paint...

Here are some pics of the brush setup. I bought an Iwata moisture trap from hobby lobby last night with the 40% coupon. Retail was 29.95! I also bought another from harbor freight for the other end. The compressor has one and it may suffice but here in louisiana it's very humid. Anyway here you go. ...

Well my new airbrush came in today. I ordered it on Tuesday morning and it made it here Wednesday. The company is in Louisiana as am I but it seems they are on top of their game much like the SSM store. For future reference, they are great to deal with and have fair prices too! I will let you guys k...

I saw somewhere that a person used a piece of tubing to mask off the dome over the shuttlebay on the tos enterprise. He simply held it over the part and painted around it. The right size tubing could be used over the bridge and lower sensor array too.