Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Well, X-Base is close to what you're looking for. But the prices alone will definitely make you reconsider. There are some things to consider. I have not seen this up close nor experimented with it, so the following are my theories: 1. The size of the model is limited to the size of the 'Base' which...

I did not get the Bandai Model so I am not sure how tight the spaces are inside the Blockade Runner nor the inner diameter of the engines, so, from here on, it's just theory: A) Using light pipes This is a great idea as in theory you can use a single light source and spread it on. However, the first...

Thanks, for the heads=up, seam-filler,

Maybe one day, if that product reaches to my part of the World 'naturally' (as in being sold in our LHS), I might want to stress-try it. Malaysia is hot and humid and so, it might pose some interesting results

Thanks, Thewrathofodysseus. So, assuming it is the saucer Wiring, they're wired up in Parallel but there's no current limiting resistors for each LED. If the 9V is confirmed to be the power source, you can use 330 Ohms resistor per LED. Or, the other alternative (which I do not like) is to connect t...

I'm a little apprehensive about conductive paint as they have some disadvantages as gleaned from the Internet. It could be better, I suppose if they metallic contents are high and does kinda 'stick' together after being applied and when the carrier evaporates. 1. High resistance, or 2. They don't la...

Is there any link for that Facebook post?

Facebook 'moves' very fast

I agree with Naoto on the capacitive switch. However, it might still be technically a custom build. If you do not want to have 5 inputs, this might be a better option: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1374 Still, it would work well assuming the Blaster's grip has metal in it otherwise you would spen...

Well, the thing is, like batteries, these button cells too have their own unique problems. 1. Expansion These little buggers love to do this when you forget to take them out or stop using the device after some time. In most cases, they tend to expand upward/downwards, exposing the cover but sometime...

D'oh! Why didn't think of that!

And I went o all the trouble of getting a relay which automatically connects to the battery once the wall adaptor plug is removed.

A friend has shown me the same model years ago but I just cannot remember the size so, you'll need to take my 2 cents with a pinch of salt... Since the tennis bal... er, sphere is held by four holders, you have some choices but they're all must be shining to the opposite holders, but the front and b...

Sure is! The two holes took me a long time and I had to remind myself not to take any coffee before I start!

https://www.facebook.com/PisceanWorks/p ... permPage=1

Yeah, I should have bought those like you mentioned. But they go through plastic easily. Oh well, once I get through all of them, I'll look for the ones Kylwell mentioned. Someone asked me to light up their Star Destroyer with 0.256mm FO. I am still contemplating. But not with these drill bits.... :D

D'oh. And I went and bought these, where they did not pack it properly and most of the 0.25mm (blue) bits snapped. Yeah, the foam was not pushed and lock, so when they closed the lid.... These bits do snap fast. https://www.facebook.com/PisceanWorks/photos/a.1177772888965539.1073742225.3745873892840...

Well, there was some from eBay but with 200mA current. I;m not sure if changing the coil's turn would affect the receiver's output...

I tried the hairspray/salt technique for the very first time last month and well, I think I more or less got some kind of results. Instead of using just salt and water, I sprayed the hairspray quite thick by accident. And in the later stage where I scraped off the salt, I got very nice pock-marks wh...

Hmm.... don't get me wrong here but from the description above, it sounded like the you're retrofitting a Diamond Select Enterprise-D. Which if this is true, perhaps you might want to explore it's existing 3x LR44 batteries in the saucer instead. Still, a quick look at eBay (for the fastest technolo...

IMHO, I have tried those induction charger things some time ago and the result was that you need to have the coils very near unlike those Kidslogic which, is a few cm away but then again, they use simple LEDs. But coming to you idea, since the saucer is connected to the Battle Bridge through magnets...

I want to know too!

Usually I line last 8mm of the fibre ends with white glue and then push it onto the hole.

Fibre optics now are usually plastic and so, hot-melt glues and heat-shrinks are a no-no.

It's best to ask from whom you bought the lighting kit from.

Although it says 12 volts, they might be able to answer in terms of huch current is needed. Normal wall adaptors can be form 12volts 500mA to 12volts 1000mA. Powerful ones can start from 12 volts 3A (or 3000mA)

If I am not mistaken, these LED strips comes in 10mm to 12mm widths and the really thin ones (like a stick) would be about 2.5mm wide.

No problem, Greg. You'll only need more current when the strip is more than a few metres long. I've been playing with the 1/144 Milllenium Falcon two years ago and have almost completed designing the circuit board for it. But I did not have the chance to get the shops to prototype the board for me d...

The Paragrafix LED strip uses 12 volts, can be cut at every 2-inches and has current-limiting resistors built into it. Based on this fact, each LED cluster (of three LEDs) would be connected serially and has ONE resistor per cluster. You can then control the brightness by adjusting the input DC volt...

I am thinking of those polythene stuff, which was used to wrap electronics goods. I got those 2mm thickness from a Daiso stores (in Malaysia) and they looked good. Better than drafting paper.

(I know you know this) Remember, to close the gaps between each hotspots until they form a continuous light.

No problem, Rogue Leader and if possible, connect all LEDs in parallel where each one will have their own current limiting resistors.

You will find out very quickly what happens if you connect a red LED and a green LED in series and only using one resistor too.

Rule of thumb (for me) for any white LED is: Forward voltage: 3.2v to 3.5v (I am using 3.2v) Forward current: 20mA So, using those information, the closest resistor value is 150 Ohms, 1/4watt and in a parallel wiring setup. Different LED lens also play into the space required and its effective brigh...

Always go parallel because if one LED burns, the rest are not affected. Only go serial if... well, just go parallel.

Because, when you seal up that model, Murphy's Law abounds and learning new swear words is not fun neither.

Darn it. I keep forgetting there's no 'LIKE' button for your posts.

What you described was a A23 battery. It has 12volts and supplies about 55mAh. One Blue LED uses 3.2v to 3.5v, and consumes 20mA. If you have 6 blue Leds, its already asking for 120mA which is more than the A23 can provide. A 9volt battery tester's circuit allows you to test a few LEDs and its desig...

The overseas place where I started work right now, does not even have ACE Hardware. So, yeah, luckily I brought my smaller hot-melts which uses black glue sticks (doubles a lightblock) like there's no tomorrow....

My original idea was to record a few seconds of the of the people shouting 'Wasshoi!" but it did not work out since the videos from YouTube was not what I expected. I was also thinking of how to move the drummer's arms with some servo too. But painting the body was as far as I got at that time ...