Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Try applying Solvaset over the lifted areas. It's a rather powerful solvent and I reserve it for stubborn decals.

Do you have a nice gloss coat to apply the decals over?

The Paasche H is a great airbrush. I use one that I've had for over 20 years for over 90 percent of the airbrushing I do. It's easy to use and super easy to clean - my go to airbrush. It's a perfect first airbrush that you will keep on using even as your skills and needs progress. I use a Paasche D3...

Your plan looks sound. Have you used this wash technique before? If so, what sort of wash are you doing? Overall, pin? I've been using MIG washes for overall coverage lately and they look great. I like oils for pin washes, but I just don't like the drying time involved - I don't have any liquin oils.

In general, that's pretty much the flow of operations.

What are you building?

Avoid using too many gloss colors / finishes. The sheen is way out of scale even for some larger models. I like to use satin finishes to represent gloss...flat for most work.

It's back!

My LHS is also receiving a restock soon.

Oh, happy days are here again!

Kylwell wrote:Believe it or not, I've used decals that neither Solvaset nor Microsol would hardly touch. Old Takara decals for Dougram. Stunningly tough.

Wow!

Solvaset is my setting solution of very last resort..........sort of like alien blood.

That's the one. I've had mine about a year and a half.

I use a D3000R and I'm very happy with it. It's quiet and reliable.

I wash the parts in water and dish detergent - and clean the parts again with 90% isopropyl alcohol immediately prior to painting.

Many people believe 3M's Acryl series of automotive putties are the best. Unfortunately they're only sold in big expensive tubes. I'm a long time user and fan of 3M Acryl Blue. It applies nicely and can be polished to a glass smooth finish. I have a 3 pound tube that I have been using for the past ...

If / when it hits the shelves again, I'm going to start hoarding it. I have one can of white left.................................

The scenario: I airbrushed Humbrol enamel Matt 81 over Testor flat grey primer. I washed the model prior to shooting the primer and let it dry 18 hours. The finish came out more satin than flat. I shot the Humbrol yesterday afternoon and it is still very tacky to the touch. I have a fan on the parts...

If you are going to apply a wash over enamel: -Gloss coat it with Future and apply an oil wash with an odorless turpenoid thinner. Allow it to dry for DAYS. Looks great if properly done. -Gloss coat it with Future and apply an acrylic wash thinned with acohol and a drop or two of dish washing deterg...

I've been using the Blue for years and I really like it. It dries fast and can be sanded glass smooth - good stuff.

Model Master Metalizer is not formulated to be used with a primer - shoot it straight onto clean plastic.

Can someone explain to me just how to do an oil wash?

I've been out of this game for 18 years and I'm lacking in the "new" basics.

I'm starting the Moebius Chariot and I want to dip the clear top - any way of doing this without using a gallon of Future in a bucket? Perhaps airbrush it on?

I did not Prime - I've taken to not doing as much priming here on Figure type kits - I did not wash the model - I've never washed a model and I've never had this issue befreo - but this is also the first Moebius kti I've built. Therein lies the rub................................... I always prime ...

I've never had this happen with a gloss over decals.

Was the initial gloss coat nice and smooth?

Did you use a decal solvent?


I always use Micro Sol. It lays the decals right down to the clear coated plastic.............no bubbles or channels possible if done right.

Wraith,

Lots of good reading:

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... hp?t=15107

I always buffed with a 100 percent cotton cloth (old T shirt). The finish usually buffs out fairly quickly. As for handling, I tried to avoid handling unsealed Metalizer finishes - I always put a coat of sealer down before handling and decals. I believe the unsealed Metalizer can take decals nicely ...

Pin Vise.

Floyd Walker wrote:Watch crystal cement.
Dries perfectly clear and is tough as all get out.

That would be what I would use.

Mr. Badwrench wrote:I use something that sounds exactly like what you've described. I get mine from Caboose Hobbies, in Denver, but you can order from them online. Is this what you need?

That is exactly what I was seeking!

Thanks!

MM Metalizers are formulated to bond to bare polished styrene for the best effect, if you're shotting them over another paint then that paint has to be smooth and shiny as well. I think as long as your primer coat is compatible with lacquer paints then you should be ok, as always: test first Ken Ag...

Thank you, Delorean Man!

I'm looking to dive into fiber optic lighting.

How do you terminate the line on a panel?

What glue do you use to secure the lead to the panel?

Can you run multiple leads of different colors in the same bundle?

How do you secure the bundles?

Thanks for the replies, folks. I probably won't start my Enterprise until this fall, so I have time to talk my wife into letting me buy a lighting kit for it.

For many years, I've used a squeeze bottle with a very thin, blunt hypodermic needle appicator for Tenax..................but my bottle has seen better days. Are there any bottles out there with very thin needles? I've tried the ones with larger bore needles, but they tend to pour, not precisely app...