Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

ya know... i'm really curious what the other 211 banes of butters exsistence are... but VERY afraid to ask.

i'm still experiemtning with getting things set up so i can get good consistent results... but once i have things figured out, i'd be interested. ...however, i'm also possibly going to be changing jobs and moving pretty quick here, so between the various factors, probably bestto forget i said anythi...

hmm... looking at the specs, seems i might have an issue using the thickness of brass i have been. .032 is what i've got currently, for artistic etched plates... could probably work with thinner, just haven't ran out of the first order yet. i'll have to experiment with thinner sheets that could be r...

i menat to just run it under water to cool it, not soak. you're right, it just peels off the brass.

and, wow. the laminators sound like a grand idea, if they work that well. any particular suggestions?

i picked up a labratory power supply, with adjustable volts and amps, for about 80 off frys.com for my eletroetching. also, some intro info (and links to expanded info) can be found over at www.steampunkworkshop.com also, regarding the toner transfer, i'm using some stuff designed for the homebrew c...

ah. true enough. the electrical current invovled is slightly... spark worthy... hehe.

and yea, it would work better with copper sulfate... but i don't want to deal with the disposal and such.

are you sure about that frank? (the chemical thing) i've got a functioning etching set up using nothing but saltwater, electricty and a laser printer to get the image on the brass...

admittedly, i haven't used it for making parts yet, as thats not my goal... but i see no reason it couldn't.

well, a star destoryer specifcally is made primarily of varius flat surfaces with alot of little bits for detail. i generally use .020 when building a planes fuselage, say, or the hull of a boat. things like that. if the shape can easily be made from flat panels, i use .040, becuase of it's strength...

i have a big stack of .020 and another of .040 that i use for basically everything i build. the 40 for strutctural stuff, the 20 for curvy stuff.

while the use and avalibility of it in japan makes me question my guess... it sounds like aves apoxie scult to me...

course i'm colorblind, so i can't really judge by that. aves looks more beige to me. however, all the other properties fit.

i did this on my first scratchbuild forthe more comlex areas of the airframe... took stripsand butted them up to one another, just like i was building a wooden boat's hull, then sanded and puttied. worked great.

once ya go Aves, ya never go back. i use it for all my filling needs, large andsmall gap, as well as smoothing surface blemishes and sculpting as well.

....not that i've done much sculpting mind you...

oooo... beautiful... probably weak as heck, but plenty capable of moving small bits of plastic, i'm sure.

thanks.

...where the heck would i get my hands on some of those?

i would love to be able to animate a few little projects i've got going...

ok... well... projects i've got... kinda half planned in my head... heh.

haven't tried it yet myself, as i've had no need on current projects (yet...)

but i've heard people mention taking strip styrene and gluing it over the formers to give the putty more of a solid guide, if that makes any sense.

...someone who has done it can explain better i'm sure.

i've seen the butterfly thing done ALOT with jewelry molds, rings and the like. one pour, one mold, but flexs open sorta like a sandwich to allow the peice to be taken out.

i've had that problem with the formers as well, once... course i've only used that method on that particular model... i'm still experimenting with techniques...

anyway! i solved it by... uhm... heh. saying it was intentional since it kinda looked cool given the subject matter.

i use the prime and sand technique, but man... sometimes i just couldn't get it right. ...oh well. only i'm gonna know.

i think your right ter... come to think of it, i bought one of the sample packs of aves ... about a year and a half ago... i dontthink i've ever even OPENED the paste. i should probably do that sometime. EDIT: *opens up paste, mixes... makes horrid mess...* ...on second thought... *pitches it to the...

ya know, i never thought about that. i always assumed volume and tried to get the blobs to be the same size... never worried bout the weight.

course, i've also never used the paste, and doing things the way i have for the sculpt works wonderfully.

never tried the paste, even though i have some. but the sculpt works wonderfully.

ooo... many spinning projects could be made quickly with that...

i've had a sample of the aves paste for over a year now... havent used it yet, as the sculpt variety seems to fill my needs perfectly well. it can be pressed pretty thin, smoothed out with just water, and is non toxic. this stuff is great.

yea, in reading the labels on the can (something i shoulda done BEFORE buying. ) i noticed the acetone and such... this stuff won't be touching styrene, thats for sure.

so, i've been working on a projectthat is 98% aves molded parts, and i'm just about to start paintng it... so last night i hgo out, hit the local hobby lobby and grab the colors i need of tamiya spray paint. yea, i know. spray paint ain't the greatest, but i got limited space and budget, so an airbr...

i was recently(ok, so it was ...a year ago... wow...) building a sorta plane like model with stubby wings. i basically ended up using thin styrene bent around a frame for the leading edges, while i puttied the ends to give them an apropriate shape. this pic is far from final, but give a fair approxi...

as a backup, interstateplastics.com sells styrene sheets, both in full 4x8 and smaller sizes too. a local supplier would be a better bet though.

i broke down and bought a casting starter set thingy of micromark. money burns holes in my pockets... sigh.

actually paulbo, i haven't molded the parts yet. just a styrene master so far.

customizable stamps eh? this require investigation. thanks.

then again, i could be simply clueless... turns out i goofed rather significantly when relaying the measurements. its a 2 centimeter radius, not diameter. after sanding, the (nearly) finished peice comes in at just about dead on 39 milimeters, or 1mm shy of 4 centimeters. i KNEW something sounded of...